Riccardo Merli

The Path

Training at Istituto alberghiero Cossa di Pavia gave Riccardo Merli a formal base before the pace of service took over. The next step, in the kitchen at D'O in Cornaredo, Italy (from 2010), brought the work into sharper focus, where repetition, timing, and pressure turned schooling into practice. Later, as chef at Luis XV Alain Ducasse in Monte Carlo, the scope widened again, with a role that carried more visibility and demanded the same control. Today, Riccardo is responsabile dei primi piatti of Olmo (since 2023). In that station, the pasta course becomes a test of precision: timing, texture, and balance all have to land cleanly. The position places him at the center of the meal, with a style shaped by the discipline of Pavia, D'O, and Monte Carlo and now applied in Cornaredo.

The Work Today

The dishes are few enough to stay legible, and the point is clarity rather than crowding the plate. Tradition remains present, but in a lighter and more direct register. Among the works associated with him are cappon magro, stracci di grano duro, raviolo aperto di Marchesi, and pollo alla Marengo. Cappon magro carries the logic of sea and vegetables arranged with care; stracci di grano duro keeps the focus on wheat and texture; raviolo aperto di Marchesi is defined by its open form; pollo alla Marengo brings historical weight into the conversation. Read together, they show a way of working with inheritance that sharpens and lightens it rather than freezing it in place. Merli has said he aims for a cuisine that is fresher and lighter, and these dishes reflect that aim. His view of cooking also extends beyond the stove. “I think that today general culture, even for a cook, is as fundamental as culinary culture.” For Merli, the kitchen is not sealed off from the wider world; reading, seeing, listening, and thinking all feed the work.

Signature

Riccardo's signature dishes include Carota caramellata, cappon magro, stracci di grano duro, and raviolo aperto di Marchesi.

In Their Words “I am the oldest among the young people who make up Oldani's team, and when I cook I am truly happy. I believe that Oldani noticed my enthusiasm.” “We try to shape our menu around traditional cuisine with a fresher, lighter reinterpretation.”

Acclaim

Riccardo's honors include Michelin star for Olmo.