Cannubi by Umberto Bombana

Trentino held at the pass

Bread can change in Andrea Susto’s hands. As Executive Chef at Andrea Susto works the pass at Cannubi by Umberto Bombana in Bangkok, that small permission matters: “We can use any kind of bread actually.” The line belongs to canederli, a dish he ties back to Trentino, his region, and it says much about the kitchen he leads in Silom. Origin gives the dish its spine; use decides its final shape.

Susto’s path into this room has been orderly rather than abrupt. He trained at Cesare Ritz Hospitality School and in Milan, then joined chef Pino Lavarra’s team at Tosca in Hong Kong in 2015. In 2018, he became chef at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Hong Kong, before taking the Executive Chef role at Opera Bombana in Beijing. Cannubi extends that same working line to Bangkok: Italian technique, produce-driven restraint, and a discipline learned across rooms where the standard was already high before the first plate left the pass.

White truffle, pasta, and measured restraint

The program at Cannubi is built around Italian fine dining with several rhythms: tasting menu, à la carte, set menu, and a white truffle menu when the ingredient leads the room. Homemade tagliolini with Alba white truffle is the clearest statement of that work. It asks for narrow control, not flourish: pasta made to carry perfume, sauce held back enough to let the truffle remain the dish, and service timed so the shaving lands while the plate is still warm.

The restaurant holds one Michelin Star in The Michelin Guide Thailand 2026, the first Italian restaurant in Thailand to receive that distinction. The point is not to make the kitchen louder. It makes the bench more exacting. Susto’s cooking here follows the same logic as his canederli: specific where the region matters, adaptable where the ingredient asks for movement. Imported Italian produce sits beside locally sourced ingredients, and the work depends on choosing which one should speak first.

The room under warm light

The dining room keeps its voice low. Warm lighting, plush seating, and wooden touches soften the formal service, while the room looks toward a waterfall that steadies the pace between courses. In that quiet, the pass has little cover. A plate of tagliolini arrives with its aroma ahead of it; a glass from the wine program meets the dish without crowding it. The room is elegant, but it does not ask the guest to admire the setting before the food.

That restraint suits a restaurant inside the reimagined Dusit Thani Bangkok, a house where luxury can easily become theatrical. Cannubi chooses another register: the counterweight of linen, glass, pasta, truffle, and a kitchen that keeps returning to origin. Here, the craft is Trentino canederli.