
Chef in Residence
Tom Micklethwait
Chef

Tom Micklethwait, chef at Micklethwait Craft Meats in Austin, builds oak-fired barbecue with scratch sides, sausage, and bread.
Oak smoke sets the pace before the knife reaches the board, and Tom Micklethwait, chef at Micklethwait Craft Meats in Austin, keeps the plate assembled from more than pit work. His foundation runs through restaurant time at Vespaio in Austin, then into the trailer service that began in December 2012 with one barbecue plate, made-from-scratch sides, fresh baked goods, and the discipline of feeding a line. Central Texas barbecue supplies the frame, but the house grammar is wider than brisket alone: oak, heat, meat, bread, sides, sauce, and timing brought to the counter together. The lineage is regional rather than attached to a named master. Micklethwait built the method through repetition, offset smoke, scratch cooking, and the habit of treating the supporting parts of the meal as craft in their own right.
The program at this counter depends on the plate holding together. Brisket remains a signature, but the work around it carries equal weight: sausages made with intention, sauce, desserts, pickles, bread, and sides worked from the same scratch-made premise. In 2017, the Austin barbecue counter was noted for brisket, knockwurst, pork ribs, campfire beans, jalapeño-cheese grits, and white bread, a set of dishes that makes the structure plain. Rendered fat, sausage craft, rib cookery, beans, grits, and bread each have a station to hold. Pulled lamb enters the menu as a special, broadening the smoke work without leaving the discipline. At the standalone restaurant, the kitchen butchers its own cuts of meat, and offset pits remain central to the cooking system. One pit lets Micklethwait cook ingredients and meats directly on the fire, returning the work to the point where heat, distance, and attention decide the result.
The move to 4602 Tanney Street on January 3, 2025 gave the long-running barbecue project its first standalone restaurant, in a renovated neighborhood church in East Austin. The room changed the scale without severing the method. Inside, stained glass and a homey church feel sit beside the counter and the pass; outside, native pecan trees shade the dining area. The former trailer practice still shows in the way the meal is built plate by plate, not as a display of meat alone. The restaurant has indoor seating for approximately 40 people, and a fixed address now carries work that began from a vintage Comet food trailer and stayed close to oak-fired service.
The restaurant’s recognition includes a Bib Gourmand in the 2025 MICHELIN Guide USA and the 2024 Texas MICHELIN Bib Gourmands, awards attached to this barbecue house. They matter here because the craft has not shifted into gloss. The next movement is already inside the daily program: an ever-changing lineup of specials and baked goods, with butchery, smoke, and scratch sides answering to the same counter. At 4602 Tanney Street, the plate comes with brisket, jalapeño-cheese grits, white bread, and the pit.
1309 Rosewood Ave, Austin, Texas, United States

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