Paco Roncero

A Rooftop Above the City's History

Madrid's high-end creative dining scene concentrates in two distinct spatial types: sleek urban interiors carved out of modern builds, and historic envelopes repurposed for contemporary kitchens. Paco Roncero belongs decisively to the second category. The restaurant occupies the rooftop level of Casino de Madrid on C. Alcalá, 15, Centro, 28014 Madrid, Spain, a 19th-century building whose ornate facade and layered architectural history set the frame before any dish arrives. That address places the restaurant a short walk from Puerta del Sol, the geographic and symbolic centre of the city, which gives the setting a particular gravity that newer venues in Salamanca or Chamberí cannot replicate.

The physical container matters here in ways that go beyond prestige real estate. At this altitude above Calle Alcalá, the restaurant opens onto a terrace with city views that extend across Madrid's roofline, situating the dining experience within the skyline rather than beneath it. The interior occupies the building's uppermost floor, where late 19th-century structure meets the kind of avant-garde aesthetic that characterises Spain's two-Michelin-star creative tier. That tension between historical shell and contemporary treatment is not incidental; it mirrors the menu's central argument, which is that serious creative cooking and Madrid's own culinary inheritance are not competing interests.

Where Madrid's Creative Tier Sits in 2025

Spain's two-Michelin-star creative restaurants form a competitive peer group that includes addresses across Madrid, Barcelona, and the Basque Country. Within Madrid specifically, the leading creative tier in 2025 includes DiverXO (Progressive - Asian, Creative), which operates at three stars, and a cluster of two-star houses that includes Deessa (Modern Spanish, Creative) and Coque (Spanish, Creative). Paco Roncero sits within that bracket, with two Michelin stars confirmed for both 2024 and 2025, a La Liste score of 95 points for both 2025 and 2026, and an Opinionated About Dining ranking of 447th in Europe for 2025, up from 513th in 2024.

That upward OAD trajectory across consecutive years signals genuine momentum within a comparable set that includes some of Spain's most established addresses. For comparison, Spain's broader two-star creative category at this tier includes houses such as Disfrutar in Barcelona, Azurmendi in Larrabetzu, and Quique Dacosta in Dénia, all of which operate with strong regional identity as a structural principle. Roncero's Madrid-focused approach aligns him more closely with that city-anchored model than with the laboratory-derived abstraction that characterises some of his peers.

Internationally, the creative fine dining conversation Roncero enters includes addresses such as Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen in Paris and Enrico Bartolini in Milan, both of which operate within monumental historic buildings and carry multi-star recognition. The pattern of placing technically ambitious creative kitchens inside 19th-century architectural landmarks is not unique to Madrid, but it is particularly pronounced there.

Three Menus, One Kitchen Argument

The menu architecture at Paco Roncero follows a structure common to Spain's leading creative tier: multiple tasting menu options at different price and depth levels, all with wine pairing available. The three menus are Esencia, Madrid, and Gran Madrid. Esencia runs at a more accessible price point and is available exclusively at Thursday and Friday lunches, which means it functions as an entry to the kitchen's language rather than a full demonstration of it. The Madrid and Gran Madrid menus represent the full creative programme.

The kitchen's editorial line is anchored in the bars and traditional cooking of the Spanish capital. Roncero's approach to olive oil is documented across multiple sources as a sustained preoccupation rather than a passing technique, and it shapes the cooking at a structural level. The foie gras preparation with white chocolate and his reinterpretation of the classic calamari sandwich both point to a working method where recognisable Madrid references are subjected to technical transformation without losing their original legibility. That is a different creative ambition from abstraction-led tasting menus, and it places the kitchen in dialogue with the city's food culture in a direct, accountable way.

On the question of vegetables, the kitchen includes plant-based preparations across its menus, but does not offer a fully vegetarian or vegan menu. For guests with specific requirements, raising this at the time of booking is the recommended approach.

Booking, Hours, and the Practical Shape of a Visit

The operating schedule concentrates service Tuesday through Saturday, with Sunday and Monday closed. Dinner service runs Tuesday and Wednesday from 8pm to 1am. Thursday, Friday, and Saturday offer both a lunch sitting from 1:30pm to 6pm and an evening service from 8pm to 1am. The lunch window on those days is also when the Esencia menu is available, making Thursday and Friday lunch the most accessible entry point to the restaurant in terms of both scheduling and cost relative to the Grand Madrid menu.

Given the address and award profile, advance booking is essential.

How Paco Roncero Compares to Madrid's Creative Tier

Madrid's Creative Fine Dining in Broader Context

Madrid's position in Spain's fine dining geography has strengthened considerably over the past decade. Where San Sebastián and Girona long defined the country's creative peak, the capital now holds a cluster of multi-starred addresses across different creative registers. Paco Roncero sits within that evolution, alongside addresses further along the creative spectrum such as Casa Mortero and a growing number of kitchens that foreground regional Spanish identity as their creative basis rather than international technique alone.

Beyond Madrid, the broader conversation about Spanish creative fine dining includes coastal kitchens like Aponiente in El Puerto de Santa María and Basque addresses like Arzak in San Sebastián, as well as El Celler de Can Roca in Girona. Each of those operates from a strong regional base. Roncero's kitchen makes Madrid itself the reference point, which is both a more difficult editorial position and a more meaningful one for a restaurant that sits, literally, above the city's historic centre.

What to Order at Paco Roncero

The question of what to order resolves quickly given the tasting menu format: the kitchen sets the sequence, and the decision sits at the menu level rather than the dish level. If the visit is a first, the Gran Madrid menu is the fullest demonstration of what the kitchen is doing with the city's culinary vocabulary. The Esencia menu at Thursday or Friday lunch is the practical entry point for those working within tighter constraints on time or budget.

Within the menu, the preparations most cited in public critical commentary cluster around Roncero's treatment of foie gras with white chocolate, his reinterpretation of the Madrid calamari sandwich, and dessert courses involving violet and a beetroot and black garlic combination. Wine pairing is available across all three menus and represents the most direct way to let the kitchen's full argument land as intended, given how specifically the tasting format is calibrated.

Two Michelin stars and a 95-point La Liste score frame the kitchen's current form clearly enough. The rooftop address above Casino de Madrid adds a layer of spatial theatre to the experience.