
Chef in Residence
Jorge Alvarez-Tostado
Chef

Chef Jorge Alvarez-Tostado shapes Tacos 1986 in Los Angeles around Tijuana-style tacos and fresh made-to-order corn tortillas here.
The tortilla lands hot, still pliant from the press, before Chef Jorge Alvarez-Tostado builds the taco at Tacos 1986 in Los Angeles. His work here begins with a direct premise: Tijuana-style tacos on fresh made-to-order corn tortillas, filled with Carne Asada, Pollo Asado, Adobada, or Mushroom, then finished in the tight sequence of the counter. Alvarez-Tostado has been Co-Founder and Co-Owner of the group since 2018, after studying at the International Culinary Center from 2012 to 2013. The restaurant was founded with Victor Delgado, whose own story ties the name to San Diego and to the year 1986, but the bench-side identity of the place rests on Alvarez-Tostado’s cooking and the specific taco grammar he brought into Los Angeles. His role is not written as a distant chef’s title. It is visible in the structure of the menu, in the tortilla ordered to the moment, and in the insistence that a taqueria can carry its discipline through speed without losing the hand.
The program is narrow by design, which is part of its strength. Carne Asada gives the counter its flame-grilled line; Pollo Asado and Adobada extend the range; the Adobada turns on the trompo, the vertical rotisserie that places the restaurant in the Tijuana style rather than a general Los Angeles taco idiom. The Mushroom taco, also called hongos, brought Alvarez-Tostado a named recognition when the Los Angeles Times included it among the 15 Best Dishes of 2019. That mattered because the praise settled on a plate, not an atmosphere. The vegan mushroom filling is seared, then paired with salsa macha, giving the taco heat, oil, seed, and depth without leaning on meat as the center of the method. Other forms sit close to the same craft: mulitas, vampiros, quesadillas, and the Perrón, an off-menu construction with flour tortilla, melted cheese, carne asada, pinto beans, and guacamole. The salsas keep their own station, including green tomatillo, chipotle adobada, and El Joy’s salsa macha, made with five chiles and sesame seeds.
The room works like a stand brought indoors without polishing away its useful pressure. Orders move across the counter; tortillas come up fresh; the pass holds the rhythm between griddle, trompo, salsa, and hand. It is lively because the format asks for movement, not because the place performs ease. A taco arrives con todo, with chopped onion, cilantro, guacamole, and salsa, and the customer receives a finished thing that has passed through several small decisions in quick succession. The counter does not hide the labor. It puts it close enough to see the sequence: press, heat, filling, garnish, fold. In that proximity, Alvarez-Tostado’s restaurant keeps the street-food source of the form while giving each station a repeatable discipline.
The later honors followed the same line of evidence. Opinionated About Dining placed Tacos 1986 at #33 on its Cheap Eats in North America list in 2023 and #30 in 2024; Pearl Recommended status arrived in 2025. Those markers sit after the dish recognition, not above it. The clearest close to the story remains the taco that made the case early, Alvarez-Tostado’s hongos taco.
609 S Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90014

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