James Beard Award winner
David Small
- Discipline
- James Beard Award winner
Portrait of David Small
i. Biography
His cooking is honest, well-made, all-around delicious food, with bacon named as a specialty. For David Small, that reads as a clear working language: direct, unadorned, and confident in familiar food done right. In a field that often rewards excess, the value here is steadier, plates that land cleanly, with comfort and control, and a cook who lets execution carry the point.
The Work Today
Training at Bishop Dunne High School, Mountain View College, and Cedar Valley College sits alongside a legal career that moved through assistant criminal district attorney, corporate attorney, and attorney in insurance defense and banking litigation. That sequence points to habits the kitchen also demands: precision, structure, and judgment. For an artisan working across law and food, those are not separate disciplines so much as different forms of the same discipline. The arrangement gives its shape: one practice grounded in legal order, the other in service, timing, and appetite. Room 797 becomes the place where that second discipline is made visible, with food as the medium and the guest’s satisfaction as the measure. Bacon, named as a specialty, adds a specific line to that register, something recognizable, savory, and tied to his name. Taken together, the legal work and the cooking suggest a maker comfortable with both analysis and instinct. Law asks for accuracy; kitchen work asks for the same, then adds pace, seasoning, and a sense of what a plate should communicate. In Room 797, David Small’s cooking appears to favor clarity over ornament and intent over display. The result is food that does not need embellishment to justify itself.
Career - attorney in private practice (1992–present) - chef, Room 797 - assistant criminal district attorney - corporate attorney - attorney in insurance defense and banking litigation Education: Bishop Dunne High School; Mountain View College; Cedar Valley College; University of North Texas
Acclaim
Small is known for Room 797 and for food described as honest, well-made, all-around delicious. Those are plain words, but in trade terms they point to a kitchen where consistency matters more than pose. The praise is for food that holds up meal after meal, with enough care in the details to make familiarity feel earned rather than routine. Bacon singled out as a specialty gives that reputation a fixed marker. It suggests a flavor profile people recognize and return to, one that fits the larger style: direct, satisfying, and anchored in the basics. The recognition tied to Room 797 is less about flourish than about trust in the plate, and that is often the stronger currency.
FAQ What is David Small's current role? David Small is Chef Owner. Where did David Small train or study? David Small trained at Bishop Dunne High School and Mountain View College. What is David Small known for? Honest, well-made, all-around delicious food.
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