Gilberto Cetina

The Path

That long stretch on the line did the quieter work of sharpening his technique and clarifying the terms of his cooking before he moved into a more defined platform. In 2017, the shift into founder and chef of Holbox gave that experience a permanent form, with the restaurant becoming the main site of his practice.

The Work Today

At Holbox (Los Angeles), seafood and masa carry equal weight in Cetina’s kitchen. The restaurant reads as a disciplined contemporary expression, but one anchored in culinary memory rather than novelty. The house-made Tostadas Raspadas, introduced through the masa program, are one marker of that approach: a simple base treated as a point of craft. The dry-aging program extends the same logic to fish, and Cetina’s emphasis on unique local and sustainable seafood is reinforced by the fact that 90% of the fish is aged. The result is a kitchen built around texture, depth, and a clear standard of progress: “We like where we are and we love what we do and we just want to continue to do it better.”

Signature

The signature dishes at Holbox map the restaurant’s core concerns with directness: Halibut Tostada, Tostadas Raspadas, Peanut Salsa Macha, blood clams, and octopus tacos. Together, they show how masa and seafood structure the kitchen’s point of view, with freshness, technique, and flavor kept in balance.

In Their Words “We like where we are and we love what we do and we just want to continue to do it better.” “I would have to say it’s a Yucatan-style pan Frances.”

Acclaim

Recognition for Gilberto Cetina includes a Michelin star (2024) and James Beard Award finalist for Best Chef California (2023).