
Chef in Residence
Francis Paniego
Chef

Set within Frank Gehry's titanium-wrapped hotel-winery in Elciego, recognised as Europe's leading vineyard estate in 2021, Marques de Riscal Restaurant positions modern Spanish cooking against one of La Rioja's most architecturally charged backdrops. Chef Francis Paniego oversees two tasting menus drawing on Basque technique and Álava's seasonal larder, with Michelin Plate recognition in both 2024 and 2025.
<h2>Architecture, Terroir, and the Table at Elciego</h2><p>The drive into Elciego from Logroño sets up the contrast precisely. The medieval village of the Rioja Alavesa sits low and stone-coloured against vineyard slopes, and then, above a ridge, Frank Gehry's titanium canopy erupts in pink, gold, and silver, a structure that borrows its palette directly from the winery's own visual language: the red of the wine, the gold of the wire mesh that wraps its bottles, the silver of the capsule. Arriving at the Marqués de Riscal complex is less like pulling up to a restaurant and more like entering a working institution that happens to feed you well.</p><p>That institutional depth matters as editorial context. The Marqués de Riscal bodega dates to 1858 and holds a singular place in Spanish wine history as one of the first Rioja houses to adopt Bordeaux winemaking methods. The 2021 designation of the estate as Europe's leading vineyard reinforced what the region's producers have long understood: Rioja Alavesa's combination of clay-limestone soils, altitude, and Atlantic influence creates a distinctive growing environment that the leading producers have spent generations learning to express. The restaurant operates inside this history, not as a decorative addition to a wine tour, but as a serious attempt to bring the same territorial thinking to food.</p><h2>The Seasonal Larder as Menu Architecture</h2><p>Spain's mercado culture, the tradition of building a kitchen around what the market offers on a given morning, rather than engineering a fixed menu backwards from a concept, has long been more visible in cities like Barcelona or San Sebastián than in the wine country interior. What distinguishes the approach at Marques de Riscal Restaurant is the way that same sourcing discipline gets applied within a structured tasting menu format. The two menus on offer, Torrea and Chirel, differ in the number of courses but share an opening sequence: Basque-inspired appetisers and fried preparations before the main progression begins.</p><p>The fried dishes in that opening act carry particular weight. The croquettes, Francis Paniego's version, derived from a recipe passed down within his family, represent the kind of cooking that often gets called humble but is better understood as technically precise. Achieving a croquette with structural integrity, a coating that shatters without greasiness, and a béchamel interior that holds temperature correctly requires consistent practice and quality raw material. It is the sort of dish that communicates more about a kitchen's discipline than a composed plate that can be assembled to order.</p><p>Francis Paniego leads the kitchen. His broader work has earned him standing among leading contemporary Spanish chefs. Within that regional context, the Rioja Alavesa and Álava provinces supply produce that shifts across the year. A kitchen working with that calendar produces a materially different experience in October than in April, which is part of why It also appears in recent Opinionated About Dining rankings.</p><h2>Where This Sits in the Modern Spanish Tier</h2><p>Spain's fine dining geography has a clear upper register: three-star houses like <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/arzak-san-sebastian-restaurant">Arzak in San Sebastián</a>, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/el-celler-de-can-roca-girona-restaurant">El Celler de Can Roca in Girona</a>, and <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/diverxo-madrid-restaurant">DiverXO in Madrid</a>, alongside tighter creative formats like <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/quique-dacosta-denia-restaurant">Quique Dacosta in Dénia</a>, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/azurmendi-larrabetzu-restaurant">Azurmendi in Larrabetzu</a>, and <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/aponiente-el-puerto-de-santa-maria-restaurant">Aponiente in El Puerto de Santa María</a>. Marques de Riscal Restaurant pairs its wine context with a polished dining room, making it especially appealing for destination visitors.</p><p>Within Logroño's dining scene, the price point sits at €€€€, matching <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/kiro-sushi-logrono-restaurant">Kiro Sushi</a> at the top of the local range and sitting above mid-range operators like <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/juan-carlos-ferrando-logrono-restaurant">Juan Carlos Ferrando</a>, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/la-cocina-de-ramon-logrono-restaurant">La Cocina de Ramón</a>, and <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/ajonegro-logrono-restaurant">Ajonegro</a>. The comparison with Kiro Sushi is instructive: both sit at the same price ceiling but represent entirely different culinary traditions. Readers planning a Logroño and Rioja itinerary can use this as one stop on a broader dining route.</p><h2>Planning the Visit</h2><p>The restaurant is located at Carr. de Laguardia, 11, 01340 Elciego, Álava, approximately 15 kilometres southwest of Logroño in the Rioja Alavesa. Elciego is not a village with public transport connections, so arriving by car or pre-arranged transfer is the practical default. The Marqués de Riscal hotel sits directly above the bodega, making an overnight stay the logical way to absorb both the architecture and the meal without the return drive pressing against the evening. For those visiting the region more broadly, the wider region provide coverage of the wider area.</p><p>Service operates Tuesday through Saturday for dinner (7 to 9:30 pm), with Saturday also offering a lunch service (1:30 to 2:30 pm). The restaurant is closed Sunday and Monday. The compressed Saturday lunch window, a single hour, runs tight against the kitchen's tasting menu format, and the dinner sessions across the working week provide more room for the pacing that two multi-course menus require. Autumn is a particularly productive time to visit: the harvest season connects directly to the wine estate's calendar, and the Álava larder is at its most varied between September and November, with game, mushrooms, and the last summer produce overlapping before the winter menu settles in.</p><p></p>
Hours at Marques de Riscal Restaurant: Hours: Monday Closed Tuesday 7–9:30 pm Wednesday 7–9:30 pm Thursday 7–9:30 pm Friday 7–9:30 pm Saturday 1:30–2:30 pm, 7–9:30 pm Sunday Closed.
Marques de Riscal Restaurant is located at Carr. de Laguardia, 11, 01340 Elciego, Álava, Spain, Logroño.
Marques de Riscal Restaurant has received recognition including: Located within the eponymous hotel-winery (recognised as the best vineyard in Europe in 2021) designed by the famous architect Frank O. Gehry and overflowing with imagination and creativity. Beneath the spectacular curved roof of pink, gold….
The opening sequence of Basque-inspired appetisers anchors both tasting menus (Torrea and Chirel), and Francis Paniego's croquettes have a specific provenance: the recipe comes from his mother. That lineage gives them a weight beyond novelty. The fried dishes in this sequence are where Paniego's philosophy of tradition-meeting-technique is most direct.
Pricing at Marques de Riscal Restaurant is listed as €€€€.
The chef associated with Marques de Riscal Restaurant is Francis Paniego.
Carr. de Laguardia, 11, 01340 Elciego, Álava, Spain
Elciego

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