
Chef in Residence
Jason Atherton
Chef

Row on 45 holds two Michelin stars (2024 to 2025) and a World's 50 Best Restaurants MENA 2024 rank of #17, operating from the 45th floor of Grosvenor House Dubai. The 17-course tasting menu unfolds across three distinct spaces for a maximum of 22 covers per sitting, with wine pairing programmes overseen by head sommelier Lorenzo Abussi. Reservations are required; business casual dress applies.
<h2>A Meal in Three Acts, Forty-Five Floors Up</h2><p>Dubai Marina has spent two decades building a dining identity around spectacle and scale: waterfront terraces, panoramic towers, rooms that seat hundreds. The format that has emerged as a counterpoint to that scale is the intimate tasting counter or private-room progression, where the architecture of the meal itself becomes the experience. Row on 45 is a two Michelin-starred restaurant in Dubai Marina, with a World's 50 Best MENA rank of 17. At 22 covers per sitting and 17 courses spread across three separate rooms, it runs closer in format and ambition to the great progression-dining rooms of Europe, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/alleno-paris-au-pavillon-ledoyen-paris-restaurant">Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen</a>, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/the-fat-duck-bray-restaurant">The Fat Duck</a> in Bray, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/quique-dacosta-denia-restaurant">Quique Dacosta</a> in Dénia, than to the open-floor restaurant operations that define most of the Marina.</p><p>That positioning has been substantiated by the awards circuit. Two Michelin stars and a rank of #17 in the World's 50 Best Restaurants MENA list for 2024 place Row on 45 inside a peer group that extends well beyond Dubai, and well beyond the Marina's immediate competition.</p><h2>Act One: The Champagne Lounge</h2><p>The meal begins in an art deco champagne lounge, and the physical logic of starting there matters. Before any plated course arrives, the setting communicates the register of what follows: bubbles, refined views across to Palm Jumeirah, and the first small plates of the evening. In the broader context of Dubai's multi-venue tasting formats, this opening movement separates Row on 45 from restaurants that treat a pre-dinner drink as an administrative necessity. Here it is the first course, framed architecturally.</p><p>The progression-dining format, where guests move physically through different spaces rather than remaining fixed at one table, has precedents at a number of two- and three-star European operations. The effect is that each act arrives with a reset of atmosphere rather than just a change of dish, a structural tool that sustains attention across a long evening in ways that a single dining room cannot always manage. For the MENA region, this remains a relatively rare format; for Dubai specifically, Row on 45 holds a near-singular position in applying it at this level of formality and credential.</p><h2>Act Two: The Chef's Kitchen</h2><p>Central dining room, described as The Pinnacle, is built around an open marble-island kitchen. The theatre here shifts from the decorative to the procedural: the cooking is visible, the brigade's movement is part of the composition. Modern European technique runs through the course sequence, with Japanese ingredient influence appearing in components like Hokkaido sea urchin, A5 Saroma wagyu, and Hokkaido scallop. The 100-year-old balsamic vinegar, deep-sea carabinero, and Noirmoutier potato with Osetra caviar position the sourcing in a bracket consistent with two-star European operations.</p><p>Menu changes seasonally. That cycle matters at a 17-course format because a static menu at that length would exhaust its own logic within a few visits. The seasonal rotation also means the menu functions as a running record of the kitchen's engagement with supply: what arrives in a given quarter shapes what appears on the marble island. A 17-course vegetarian tasting menu runs in parallel, which at this tier of formality is notable, many two-star European operations still treat the vegetarian path as a shorter or less architecturally complete experience. The parity here signals a kitchen genuinely committed to building both menus as complete works rather than one primary and one adaptation.</p><p></p><h2>Act Three: The Chef's Library</h2><p>The meal concludes in a Victorian-inspired room called The Chef's Library, where dessert, cheese, and petit fours arrive alongside a roaming trolley of cognacs and whiskies. The physical shift into a smaller, more domestic register for the final act is deliberate: it reduces the formal pressure of the meal's middle section and invites the evening to extend rather than conclude. Roaming drink trolleys are a format borrowed from the classic European dining room, a signal of institutional confidence in the cellar's depth and the guest's willingness to stay.</p><p>The wine programme is overseen by head sommelier Lorenzo Abussi. The pairing options span premium and rare European wines alongside Japanese sake, and a separate non-alcoholic pairing menu is offered. The non-alcoholic path includes constructions like a cold-press Merlot carrying notes of morello cherry and licorice alongside Pinot Noir, treatments that apply the same structural thinking to the beverage pairing as the kitchen applies to the food. In Dubai, where non-alcoholic beverage programmes at fine dining level are increasingly sophisticated, Row on 45's parallel pairing path reflects a broader regional pattern rather than an exception to it.</p><h2>Where Row on 45 Sits in Dubai's Fine Dining Tier</h2><p>Dubai's top-end restaurant market has stratified considerably over the past five years. Venues like <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/ossiano-dubai-restaurant">Ossiano</a> in Atlantis operate at similar formality and award recognition levels. <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/tresind-studio-dubai-restaurant">Trèsind Studio</a> holds a position in the MENA 50 Best list and applies a comparable multi-course Indian tasting format. <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/tero-the-experience-by-reif-othman-dubai-restaurant">TERO - The Experience by Reif Othman</a> and <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/moonrise-dubai-restaurant">moonrise</a> represent the city's newer tasting-format entrants. <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/late-eatery-dubai-restaurant">Late Eatery</a> sits further down the formality register but reflects the same appetite for structured, chef-led menus.</p><p>Row on 45 occupies the leading bracket of that group: two Michelin stars, a Les Grandes Tables du Monde membership (a body that counts fewer than 200 restaurants globally), and a 22-cover limit that keeps the operation tightly controlled. Its hotel address inside Grosvenor House, a Luxury Collection property, places it within a segment of Dubai fine dining that is hotel-anchored but operates with the award identity and format discipline of a standalone destination. The view from the 45th floor, across Palm Jumeirah and the Marina canal, functions as a spatial argument for the price point rather than a compensatory gesture: at this tier, the room is part of the offering.</p><p> For comparable tasting-format destinations in the MENA region, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/erth-abu-dhabi-restaurant">Erth in Abu Dhabi</a> offers a different culinary register at equivalent formality.</p><h2></p><table><thead><tr><th>Venue</th><th>Format</th><th>Price Tier</th><th>Covers</th><th>Awards</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>Ossiano</td><td>Tasting menu, single room</td><td>$$$$</td><td>Not specified</td><td>Michelin-recognised</td></tr><tr><td>Trèsind Studio</td><td>Tasting menu, Indian</td><td>$$$$</td><td>Not specified</td><td>MENA 50 Best ranked</td></tr><tr><td>City Social</td><td>Modern British, à la carte / tasting</td><td>$$$$</td><td>Not specified</td><td>Not specified</td></tr></tbody></table>
Pricing at Row on 45 is listed as $$$$.
Row on 45 has received recognition including: In Dubai Marina, where yachts ply a scenic canal flanked by futuristic skyscrapers and people dine alfresco at waterfront cafés in the shadow of glamorous high-rises, Row on 45 on the 45th floor of Grosvenor House, A Luxury Collection Hotel….
The only format on offer is the 17-course tasting menu, which moves through three distinct rooms over the course of the evening. Documented ingredients include Hokkaido sea urchin, A5 Saroma wagyu, Noirmoutier potato with Osetra caviar, and bluefin date maguro served in the opening champagne lounge alongside Norwegian king crab prepared takoyaki-style. A full 17-course vegetarian menu runs parallel to the main sequence. Sommelier Lorenzo Abussi's pairing options cover premium European wines, Japanese sake, and a non-alcoholic track built around cold-press expressions.
Al Emreef St - Marsa Dubai - Dubai Marina - Dubai - United Arab Emirates
Dubai Marina
FZN by Björn Frantzén

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