Sobretablas

Sevillian memory at the pass

At the pass, chef Camilla Ferraro keeps pringá, chickpeas, prawns and Sevillian memory in play at Sobretablas in El Porvenir, Seville. She has held the kitchen here since 2018, working in a register that treats tradition as a live material rather than a fixed inheritance. The local forms remain legible: Montadito de Pringa, Samosa de espinacas con garbanzos, langostinos con chicharrones. The hand changes the pressure, not the origin.

Ferraro trained at Escuela Pública de Hostelería de La Cónsula, then passed through El Lago in Marbella, A Poniente in El Puerto de Santa María, and El Celler de Can Roca in Girona. That route matters at Sobretablas because the cooking asks for two disciplines at once. One is the exactitude of serious Spanish kitchens, where pacing and repetition shape the service. The other is Andalusian memory, especially the Sevillian recipes that give the plates their footing. Ferraro has described the instinct simply: “Me surge de forma natural.”

Annual changes, familiar forms

The menu renews annually, but the method does not chase novelty for its own sake. Sobretablas works in modern Andalusian and Mediterranean terms, with tasting menu, à la carte and small plates all built around regional reference. The kitchen can move from a montadito to seafood cream, from hake to suckling pig, without treating the older language as decoration. Technique translates the dish into the present tense.

The wine program gives the room another line of discipline. The restaurant is known for an exceptional list, with Spanish and French depth, wines by the glass and pairings shaped to the food. Star Wine List named Sobretablas Best Long List of the Year Spain 2025 and Sparkling Wine List of the Year Spain 2025. The house also holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand, recognition attached to this address. Awards sit better here as facts than as mood. The glass holds its place beside prawn, pork rind, spinach, chickpea and citrus.

A quiet room in El Porvenir

The room keeps the service calm. Sobretablas sits in a building from the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, in the El Porvenir neighborhood near María Luisa Park and Plaza de España, and the interior uses that inheritance without fuss. High ceilings, large windows and oversized potted plants give the dining room a garden-like lift. The line between polished and informal stays intentionally narrow.

That setting suits Ferraro’s cooking. A small restaurant can make the pass feel close without turning the meal into theatre, and Sobretablas does that with a clean contemporary room, quiet noise level and enough ease for dishes to arrive without ceremony. The craft is in the calibration: a Sevillian recipe remembered clearly, a contemporary plate held back from excess, a glass poured to meet langostinos con chicharrones.