Chef in Residence
Miljohn Dimaano
Chef

The Falls Restaurant at Sheen Falls Lodge sits at the intersection of Kerry's coastal larder and the technical discipline of French-influenced Irish cooking. With a 450-selection wine list overseen by Wine Director Benjamin Benke and a kitchen led by Chef Mark Treacy, it occupies the upper tier of destination dining in southwest Ireland. The Kenmare estuary is both backdrop and supplier.
<h2>Where the Kenmare River Meets the Plate</h2><p>Approaching Sheen Falls Lodge along the wooded road that tracks the Sheen River, the sound of the waterfall arrives before the building does. The Falls Restaurant takes its name from that cascade, audible from the dining room on still evenings, and the geography is not merely decorative. Kenmare sits at the head of a ria that funnels Atlantic water deep into southwest Kerry, and the estuary's tidal rhythms shape what appears on the menu as directly as any kitchen decision. In that sense, this is a dining room where the landscape outside is a working part of the operation.</p><p>Southwest Ireland has developed a credible argument for being the country's most productive coastal larder. The cold, clean waters off the Iveragh Peninsula support shellfish, wild fish, and crustaceans that arrive at Kerry ports in conditions that restaurants in Dublin spend significant effort and markup trying to replicate. The Falls Restaurant, positioned within Kenmare's small but serious dining scene, works from that geographic advantage. For context on how Kerry's coastal dining compares to the rest of the country's premium circuit, our full Kenmare Co. Kerry restaurants guide maps the broader picture.</p><h2>The Sourcing Logic Behind Irish Seafood Cooking</h2><p>Ireland's leading seafood restaurants now cluster in coastal towns rather than capital cities, and the reasoning is direct supply-chain arithmetic: proximity to the port compresses the time between catch and kitchen. The Falls Restaurant's classification as Modern Irish Fine Dining places it in a specific tradition. Chef Miljohn Dimaano works within that framework, applying classical French technique to produce dishes that do not need much persuasion to taste good.</p><p>The French-Irish model, seen across the country's most recognised rooms, from <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/chapter-one-by-mickael-viljanen-dublin-restaurant">Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen in Dublin</a> to <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/terre-castlemartyr-restaurant">Terre in Castlemartyr</a>, tends to treat local produce as the constant and classical technique as the variable. What distinguishes the approach at The Falls from the naturalistic, fermentation-led style of places like <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/aniar-galway-restaurant">Aniar in Galway</a> or the tighter, more progressive format of <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/bastion-kinsale-restaurant">Bastion in Kinsale</a> is that it sits inside a full-service lodge context. The kitchen operates for dinner service within Sheen Falls Lodge, which positions it differently from standalone destination restaurants: the pacing is hotel-dining unhurried, the format is à la carte, and reservations are essential.</p><h2>The Wine Program</h2><p>The wine list here is a notable strength. At 450 selections and an inventory of 11,495 bottles, this is not a curated-minimal list assembled for aesthetic effect. Wine Director Benjamin Benke and Sommelier Juan Ignacio Martinez Cambil manage a program weighted toward France, the list's stated strength, with pricing that sits in the mid-range bracket: a range of price points rather than a list composed predominantly of bottles under €50 or above €100. The corkage fee is set at $25 for those bringing their own bottle, which suggests the restaurant is willing to accommodate guests with personal cellar holdings rather than treating outside bottles as a competitive threat.</p><p>For a hotel dining room in a town of Kenmare's size, a near-12,000-bottle inventory signals serious long-term commitment to the cellar. It also signals that the wine program is treated as a destination feature in its own right, not an amenity. France as the primary anchor aligns logically with the kitchen's French-Irish culinary orientation.</p><h2>The Broader Irish Seafood Dining Circuit</h2><p>Kerry's coastal restaurants operate within a national seafood dining conversation that has grown considerably more sophisticated over the past decade. The reference points that once defined premium Irish seafood cooking, heavy cream sauces, safe garnishes, conservative plating, have given way to something more technically considered at the top end of the market. Restaurants like <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/dede-baltimore-restaurant">dede in Baltimore</a>, which draws on the fishing community of West Cork, and <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/chestnut-ballydehob-restaurant">Chestnut in Ballydehob</a> represent the smaller-format, produce-obsessive end of that shift. The Falls operates at a different scale: a full lodge dining room with the staffing depth, Chef Treacy, General Manager Brian Loughnane, and a dedicated sommelier team, that a property owned by Dr. Stanley Quek and Peng Loh can support.</p><p>The current Google rating of 4.8 from 13 reviews reflects a dining room with a strong local reputation. For comparison, restaurants with similar positioning, lodge dining rooms in scenic locations with serious wine programs, tend to generate loyal rather than viral followings.</p><p> Each represents a different model for serious cooking outside the capital. The Falls sits closest to the lodge-dining tier of that group.</p><h2>Planning a Visit</h2><p>The Falls Restaurant is located within Sheen Falls Lodge at Kenmare Old, Kenmare, Co. Kerry (V93 HR27). Dinner is served Tuesday through Saturday, and reservations are essential. Given the lodge context, guests staying on property have the clearest access, but the restaurant has historically served non-residents; confirmation directly with the property is recommended. Cuisine pricing sits in the $40–$65 range for a typical two-course meal before beverages. The wine list's mid-tier pricing means a thoughtfully chosen bottle from the France-anchored list does not automatically push a dinner into a high-spend bracket, though the inventory depth means options at higher price points are available for guests who want them.</p>
The Falls sits within Sheen Falls Lodge, a country house property that pitches itself firmly toward the formal end of Irish hotel dining. Dinner is the only service, pricing runs in the $40–$65 two-course range, and the room is structured around the lodge's setting rather than family flexibility. Older children comfortable with a sit-down dinner format will manage; it is not designed around younger guests.
Country house formal without being stiff — the register that good Irish lodge dining occupies when it's working well. The waterfall that gives the restaurant its name is audible from the property, and the lodge architecture sets expectations before you reach the dining room. Wine Director Benjamin Benke oversees a 450-selection list with an 11,495-bottle inventory, which signals that the room takes its hosting seriously without performing theatrics about it.
The Falls Restaurant has received recognition including: HIGHLIGHTS: • COOKING CLASSICS; WINE: Wine Strengths: France Pricing: $$ i Wine pricing: Based on the list\'s general markup and high and low price points:$ has many bottles < $50;$$ has a range of pricing;$$$ has many $100+ bottles Corkage….
The kitchen's stated primary register is Irish Seafood, and Kenmare's estuary position makes that a credible claim rather than a menu affectation — the town sits at the head of the Kenmare River with direct access to Kerry's Atlantic-facing fishing grounds. Chef Mark Treacy works within a French and Irish cuisine framework, so expect classical technique applied to local catch. The wine list, at 450 selections with a $$ markup tier, has the depth to pair seriously with the seafood direction.
The Falls Restaurant is located at Sheen Falls Lodge, Kenmare Old, Kenmare, Co. Kerry, V93 HR27, Ireland, Kenmare Co. Kerry.
The chef associated with The Falls Restaurant is Miljohn Dimaano.
Sheen Falls Lodge, Kenmare Old, Kenmare, Co. Kerry, V93 HR27, Ireland
Kenmare

Japanese-influenced Californian Kaiseki
Single Thread Farm
Healdsburg, United States
★★★ · 50 Best

French Seafood Fine Dining
Le Bernardin
New York City, United States
★★★ · 50 Best

Modern Korean Tasting Menu
Atomix
New York City, United States
★★ · 50 Best

French
Sézanne
Tokyo, Japan
★★★ · 50 Best

Contemporary Plant-Based Fine Dining
Eleven Madison Park
New York City, United States
★★★ · 50 Best

Modern Seafood Fine Dining
Providence
Los Angeles, United States
★★★ · 50 Best