i. Biography
The Climb
Restaurant ownership, in Earl Ninsom’s case, reads as a craft of accumulation: training, repetition, and enough persistence to turn one room into a long run of work. College in Thailand is the starting point given here, followed by a first Portland foothold as co-opener / restaurateur at Thai Cottage in Downtown St. Johns, Portland, Oregon. From there, the resume expands in sequence: owner / restaurateur at Mee-Sen Thai Eatery in Portland, Oregon (from 2009), then chef / restaurateur at Langbaan in Portland, Oregon and chef / restaurateur at Phuket Cafe in Portland, Oregon. Today’s roster places Earl Ninsom across multiple Portland kitchens: owner / restaurateur of PaaDee (since 2011), chef / restaurateur of Eem, chef / restaurateur of Hat Yai, and chef / restaurateur of Yaowarat. The pattern is less about one fixed address than about building related rooms with distinct functions, each carrying the same maker’s hand.
Today
Continuity is the useful word for PaaDee, where Earl Ninsom remains owner and keeps one of the central reference points in his Portland work. That role sits alongside Hat Yai and Yaowarat, extending the same operating presence across several dining rooms without collapsing them into a single model. Hat Yai opened in 2016 as a fast-casual restaurant named after a city in southern Thailand. In that format, the cooking still needs to land with precision, and the Turmeric Curry Mussels do so by bringing Thai curry together with coconut milk, fish sauce, betel leaves, steamed rice, cucumber, and green beans. It is a dish built for contrast and sequence, with aroma, heat, and texture moving together. Taken as a group, the current roles show a restaurateur working across related concepts rather than repeating one formula. The thread is consistency of approach, carried from one place to the next in Portland.
Signature
Earl's signature dishes include Turmeric Curry Mussels and Southern Thai Mango Salad. One pushes into depth and warmth; the other into brightness and lift. Read together, they show a kitchen language that values contrast without losing control.
Recognition
Earl's honors include James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant (2024).
Profile updated July 2026
FAQ
Asked of Earl
Where did Earl Ninsom train or study?
Earl Ninsom trained at College in Thailand.
What recognition has Earl Ninsom received?
James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant (2024).
