Giancarlo Perbellini

The Climb

Pastry-shop training gives a cook an early respect for weight, sequence, temperature, and repetition. Giancarlo Perbellini’s first work in the family pastry shop placed precision before improvisation. The early kitchen years that followed — Marconi, Desco, 12 Apostoli in Verona, Italy, and San Domenico in Imola, Italy — added the service habits and table language of Italian hospitality. Classical training gains range when it is tested outside its first context. Perbellini’s work at Traillevent in Paris, France, and under chef Bernard Pacaud at Ambroisie put French rigor, balance, and dish structure into the same frame as his Italian foundation. La Terrasse in Juan-les-Pins, France, added another register to that formation. International openings test a cook’s method against pace, scale, and a different public. Perbellini’s participation in the launch of a restaurant for a noted industrial brand in New York, United States (from 2012), widened the field without changing the central problem: how to keep tradition legible while pushing it toward a modern expression. Authorship in a regional address depends on return as much as departure. The opening of restaurant of Perbellini (since 1989) made that position explicit. The current role of chef patron of Casa Perbellini 12 Apostoli brings apprenticeship, travel, recognition, and Verona back into one working frame.

Today

“To me, it feels like coming back to the most beautiful place in the world after having seen almost all of it. My gratitude goes to Giorgio Gioco.” Return, in this context, is a craft decision rather than a biographical flourish. At Casa Perbellini 12 Apostoli, history is not presented as a fixed exhibit. It is part of the working material of the house: atmosphere, service rhythm, guest comfort, and the pressure to make an old room feel usable now. “I believe lightness is the essential component of the future – the guest should experience the charm of this historic place, but in a light, unoppressive way, not like the labelled restaurants of the past.” Lightness here reads as a position on hospitality as well as cuisine. It is not only a matter of reducing weight on the plate. In Perbellini’s phrasing, it concerns how refinement is delivered: with enough ease for history to be felt without making the guest carry it.

Career - opened restaurant — Perbellini, Isola Rizza, Italy (1989–present) - chef patron — Casa Perbellini 12 Apostoli, Verona, Italy - worked in the family pastry shop — family pastry shop - early cook experience — Marconi - early cook experience — Desco - young chef / early cook experience — 12 Apostoli, Verona, Italy - early cook experience — San Domenico, Imola, Italy - training — Traillevent, Paris, France - training under chef Bernard Pacaud — Ambroisie - training — La Terrasse, Juan-les-Pins, France

Signature

Giancarlo's signature dishes include The sesame wafer, Il mio wafer... tartàre di branzino, caprino, liquirizia, Mille e Millefoglie, Risotto all’Amarone, scampi e peperoni dolci, Anatra laccata al lime, and patata affumicata e jus al pepe nero. The named dishes show a kitchen working with contrast rather than excess: wafer and tartàre, branzino with caprino and liquirizia, millefeuille language in Mille e Millefoglie, Risotto all’Amarone set with scampi e peperoni dolci, and Anatra laccata al lime with patata affumicata e jus al pepe nero. In Perbellini’s signatures, memory is not copied flat. It is adjusted through texture, acidity, bitterness, sweetness, smoke, and sauce.

In Their Words “It is here that I took my first steps as a young chef, and today I return as chef patron. To me, it feels like coming back to the most