Portrait of Jair Téllez
i. Biography
Baja California cuisine gains its force from edge conditions: coastline, border traffic, and a working tolerance for appetite without overstatement. In Jair Téllez’s cooking, that register has moved from Ensenada to Mexico City without losing its northern coastal line. As executive chef at MeroToro in Mexico City, he carries Baja California cuisine into the capital through coastal precision, northern Spanish influence, and a clear argument for the range of Mexican cooking.
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The Work Today
Spanish-influenced northern coastal cuisine at MeroToro works through contrast without showmanship. As executive chef, Téllez builds menus that include ceviches, seasonal salads, whole roasted fish, lamb, and pork, moving among brine, smoke, fat, and acid without reducing Mexican cooking to familiar signals. The technique often starts from clarity: fish cut cleanly, vinegar used for lift, char for bitterness, and meat or egg handled for balance rather than excess.
Range is part of the discipline. Braised meats with poached eggs sit beside delicate seafood dishes that challenge stereotypes of Mexican cooking, letting the table move from depth and comfort to saline lightness. The Scallop Salad at MeroToro was an ultrasimple recipe of seared scallops, fingerling potatoes, charred spring onions, sherry vinegar, and mixed greens and herbs. The construction depends on confidence in few parts: heat, acidity, greens, herbs, and enough restraint to keep each element legible.
Sierra ceviche with avocado, poblano, and onion, served with salt crackers, shows the same economy. A reviewer praised its outstanding flavor and presentation. The set is spare, fish, chile, onion, fat, crunch, but the point is concentration, not absence. In Téllez’s work, simplicity functions as compression. Hospitality here is treated as a medium, not a slogan. “My language is food, but people are the medium—connecting with others is what it’s all about for me.”
Signature
Signature dishes include Scallop Salad from MeroToro and Sierra ceviche with avocado.
FAQ
Asked of Jair
What is Jair Téllez's current role?
Jair Téllez is chef at MeroToro.
Where did Jair Téllez work before?
Earlier in his career, Jair Téllez worked at Tijuana racetrack.
The Sunday email
Read about chefs like Jair Téllez in the Sunday email.
Every Sunday we send a lead story and up to four more about the chefs, winemakers, sommeliers and hoteliers behind the restaurants, bars, wineries and hotels we cover.
Recent stories
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