
Chef in Residence
Mathias Martin
Chef

A cart on Jalan Aston in Bukit Mertajam that has been making Apam Balik since 1962, BM Cathay Pancake earned Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition in both 2024 and 2025 for a single dish: a chargrilled pancake with sugar peanut filling, crispy at the edges and chewy at the centre. At street-food pricing, it is one of Seberang Perai's most decorated food stops.
<h2>One Cart, One Dish, Sixty-Plus Years</h2><p>Bukit Mertajam's street-food identity is built on decades of single-focus stalls, operators who narrow their craft to one dish and refine it across generations. That discipline is particularly visible along the stretch of Jalan Aston, where BM Cathay Pancake has occupied a position outside the Cathay Food Court since 1962. The cart does not rotate its menu or introduce seasonal variations. It makes Apam Balik: a chargrilled pancake with a sugar and peanut filling, handed over hot, and nothing else.</p><p>Apam Balik belongs to a category of Malaysian street snacks with roots in Chinese turnover pancakes and Indian influence from the subcontinent's flatbread traditions, adapted across generations into a distinctly Peninsular Malaysian form. The version made at Bukit Mertajam tends toward a thicker, chewier profile compared to the thinner, crispier Penang-island style that most visitors encounter first. The textural contrast, a crisped exterior that gives way to a dense, yielding centre, is the point of the thing, and it is achieved through chargrilling rather than pan-frying or griddle-only preparation. The method matters: chargrilling produces a different caramelisation on the batter's surface and a smokier edge to the sweetness of the filling than a flat hotplate alone would deliver.</p><h2>Why the Bib Gourmand Matters Here</h2><p>Michelin awarded BM Cathay Pancake a Bib Gourmand in both 2024 and 2025. The Bib Gourmand designation recognises good food at accessible prices. For a cart operating on a single dish at street-food pricing, two consecutive years of recognition confirms that the consistency and technique hold up under repeated scrutiny, not just on a single visit.</p><p> The same logic applies here: longevity alone does not earn recognition, but longevity combined with repeatable quality does.</p><p>Within Seberang Perai, the Bib Gourmand positions BM Cathay Pancake at the more formally recognised end of a street-food scene that includes <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/taman-bukit-curry-mee-seberang-perai-restaurant">Taman Bukit Curry Mee</a>, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/ming-qin-charcoal-duck-egg-char-koay-teow-seberang-perai-restaurant">Ming Qin Charcoal Duck Egg Char Koay Teow</a>, and <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/bee-see-heong-seberang-perai-restaurant">Bee See Heong</a>. None of those are lesser in local esteem, but the Michelin signal adds an external benchmark that draws visitors who might otherwise confine their eating to George Town across the water.</p><h2>The Ingredient Logic Behind Apam Balik</h2><p>The editorial angle on any Apam Balik worth discussing is the filling. The standard formulation uses coarse ground peanuts, white sugar, and sometimes creamed corn. What separates a well-made version from a perfunctory one is the ratio and the grind of the peanuts: too fine and the filling becomes paste-like and loses textural counterpoint to the batter; too coarse and the pieces puncture the pancake unevenly during folding. The sugar level calibrates against the nuttiness, and the quantity must be generous enough to form a light caramel under heat without burning before the batter sets.</p><p>The chargrilling method used here adds a dimension that purely hotplate-cooked versions lack. Charcoal introduces variable heat that creates irregular browning on the batter, which most serious Apam Balik eaters read as a quality indicator. The technique requires more attention per pancake than a regulated electric griddle, which is one reason many newer operators have moved away from it. A cart maintaining the charcoal method since 1962 is, in ingredient-sourcing and technique terms, preserving a more labour-intensive production approach that has largely disappeared from higher-volume street-food contexts.</p><p>This connects to a broader pattern across Penang's mainland food scene: the most decorated operators at the street-food tier tend to be those who have resisted the efficiency substitutions that came with urbanisation. <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/888-hokkien-mee-lebuh-presgrave-george-town-restaurant">888 Hokkien Mee (Lebuh Presgrave)</a> in George Town represents the same principle applied to noodles; <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/a-noodle-story-singapore-restaurant">A Noodle Story</a> and <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/91-fried-kway-teow-mee-singapore-restaurant">91 Fried Kway Teow Mee</a> in Singapore apply it differently but from the same underlying logic. Technique fidelity at the ingredient level is what the Michelin inspectors are consistently rewarding in this category.</p><h2>Seberang Perai's Position in the Penang Eating Circuit</h2><p>Most visitors to Penang treat George Town as the primary eating destination and the mainland as an afterthought or transit point. That calculus is shifting. Seberang Perai's street-food operators have accumulated enough external recognition, the Michelin list being the most legible example, that food-focused travellers are building dedicated itineraries around it. The price tier across the scene reinforces this: a full eating session on the mainland, covering multiple stops from <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/bm-yam-rice-seberang-perai-restaurant">BM Yam Rice</a> to BM Cathay Pancake to a curry mee lunch, remains at a fraction of what equivalent eating in George Town costs, and the cooking at the leading operators is not at a lower standard.</p><p>For those structuring a Penang trip to cover both sides, the Cathay Food Court area in Bukit Mertajam is a practical anchor point. The cart operates outside the food court on Jalan Aston.</p><p> For context on what Michelin-recognised Malaysian cooking looks like at the fine-dining end, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/dewakan-kuala-lumpur-restaurant">Dewakan in Kuala Lumpur</a> and <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/auntie-gaik-leans-old-school-eatery-george-town-restaurant">Auntie Gaik Lean's Old School Eatery in George Town</a> offer useful reference points on how the same inspectors evaluate entirely different formats. <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/the-planters-at-the-danna-langkawi-restaurant">The Planters at The Danna in Langkawi</a> shows the other end of the Malaysian hospitality spectrum if your trip extends further north.</p><h2>Planning Your Visit</h2><p>BM Cathay Pancake is located at Jalan Aston, 14000 Bukit Mertajam, outside the Cathay Food Court. Pricing sits at the lowest end of the street-food tier, at about US$1 per person. No booking is required; the format is walk-up and order. Given the Bib Gourmand recognition, expect a queue during morning peak hours. The dish is served immediately on preparation, so plan to eat on the spot rather than carrying it elsewhere.</p>
Straightforwardly yes. The format — a single chargrilled pancake made on the cart and served hot with sugar and peanut filling — is simple, fast, and priced at the lowest end of Malaysian street food. There is nothing complicated about the order process, and watching the pancake cook in front of you holds attention across most age groups.
This is a street-cart operation outside the Cathay Food Court on Jalan Aston, 14000 Bukit Mertajam — no seating arrangements, no printed menu, and no pretension. The draw is a 60-plus-year single-dish focus that Michelin recognised with consecutive Bib Gourmand awards in 2024 and 2025, which is a credentialling rare at this price point anywhere in Malaysia.
BM Cathay Pancake has received recognition including: Since 1962, this cart outside Cathay Food Court has been serving only one dish – Apam Balik, or chargrilled pancake with sugar peanut filling. Made on the spot and served piping hot, it’s crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside.; Micheli….
There is one dish: Apam Balik, a chargrilled pancake with a filling of coarse ground peanuts and sugar. The Michelin Bib Gourmand in both 2024 and 2025 specifically flags good food at accessible prices, and that designation applies to a cart that has been making the same preparation since 1962. Quantity is the only decision you need to make.
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