
Chef in Residence
Dominick DiBartolomeo
Chef

A Beverly Hills institution on South Santa Monica Boulevard, the Cheese Store has anchored the city's specialty food scene for decades under the direction of Dominick DiBartolomeo. With a Google rating of 4.8 across 286 reviews and a 2025 Pearl Recommended designation, it sits at the more considered end of LA's American deli category, a counter-service destination where cheese selection and deli craft are treated as serious disciplines.
<h2>Where the Counter Tells the Story</h2><p>South Santa Monica Boulevard in Beverly Hills runs a particular kind of errand-and-appetite corridor, florists, boutiques, and a handful of serious specialty food stops that have outlasted multiple cycles of LA dining fashion. The Cheese Store occupies a spot in that corridor where the sensory register shifts the moment you step inside. The smell arrives first: the dry, faintly ammonic edge of aged rinds, the sweeter funk of bloomy wheels, the mineral cool of a well-kept cave translated into a retail case. Before a word is exchanged at the counter, the room announces what kind of place this is.</p><p> A dedicated cheese shop that functions as a deli counter, a purveyor, and an education in the category occupies a specific niche, one that requires both curation depth and consistent execution to sustain over time. Dominick DiBartolomeo has directed that curation here, and the shop's 2025 Pearl Recommended designation reflects a track record rather than a moment.</p><h2>The Deli Format and What It Demands</h2><p>American deli culture, at its most considered, is a format built on restraint and sourcing discipline. The counter is the theater: what sits behind the glass, how it is stored, how it is sliced, and what the person behind it knows about what they're selling. In cities like New York, Chicago, and San Francisco, the leading deli counters have developed cult followings precisely because the format strips away the ambient padding of a full restaurant, there's nowhere for a mediocre product to hide when the sandwich or the cheese plate is the entire experience.</p><p>Los Angeles has its own version of this tradition, though it runs differently than the East Coast deli lineage. Here, the California produce calendar intersects with a broader international sourcing sensibility. Specialty cheese retail in LA tends to lean toward European imports and artisan domestic producers, with an emphasis on variety over volume. The Cheese Store's positioning on a Beverly Hills address means the standard for selection and service sits above the neighborhood deli baseline. A Google rating of 4.7 across 383 reviews is a signal worth reading.</p><p> <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/brunos-market-and-deli-carmel-by-the-sea-restaurant">Brunos Market and Deli in Carmel-by-the-Sea</a> operates within a beach-town specialty market context, where the deli component sits inside a broader grocery offer. <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/atticus-market-new-haven-restaurant">Atticus Market in New Haven</a> represents the East Coast version of the format, bookshop-adjacent, collegiate-neighborhood-anchored. The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills is neither of these things. It is a focused specialty counter in a high-density luxury zip code, and it behaves accordingly.</p><h2>Atmosphere as Argument</h2><p>The sensory case for a shop like this is also an argument about what specialty food retail should feel like. The visual register inside a serious cheese counter, the rows of wheels at different stages of age, the handwritten labels, the contrast between mold-ripened surfaces and waxed rinds, carries information that a supermarket refrigerator case cannot. Sound matters too: the particular quiet of a shop where the transaction is deliberate, where questions are expected and answered with specifics rather than a shrug toward the display case.</p><p>That atmosphere has a practical effect on how people shop. Counter-service formats where the staff has genuine product knowledge generate longer transactions and higher basket sizes, not because the customer is upsold, but because the conversation opens options the customer didn't know to ask about. The Cheese Store's longevity in a neighborhood with very low tolerance for underperformance suggests that dynamic has sustained itself here across multiple generations of Beverly Hills residents and visitors.</p><p>Within the broader LA dining context, the shop sits in a different register than the city's celebrated tasting menu circuit. <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/kato-los-angeles-restaurant">Kato</a> and <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/somni-los-angeles-restaurant">Somni</a> represent the city at its most technically ambitious, while <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/providence">Providence</a> anchors the fine dining seafood tier with two Michelin stars. The Cheese Store operates in an entirely different category, not a competitor to those rooms, but a complement to them, and a reminder that a city's food culture is measured across the full spectrum from the counter to the tasting menu.</p><p></p><p></p>
The counter-service format requires no reservations, so there is no barrier to entry by age or group size. That said, the South Santa Monica Boulevard address in Beverly Hills sets a price register that skews toward adults shopping with purpose rather than families looking for a casual meal stop. The shop's Pearl Recommended status reflects a specialist retail experience, not a broad dining destination.
This is a working specialty counter, not a café or tasting room. The atmosphere follows the logic of serious food retail: the focus is on what is behind the glass, the knowledge of the person serving it, and the efficiency of the transaction. Dominick DiBartolomeo's presence anchors the shop's reputation as a counter where expertise is the primary currency.
Cheese Store of Beverly Hills has received recognition including: Pearl Recommended Restaurant (2025).
The cheese selection is the clear point of gravity here. The shop earned Pearl Recommended recognition in 2025, and its category identity as a specialist cheese counter means the selection and counter guidance are what distinguish it from a standard deli. Ask the counter staff for their current recommendations rather than arriving with a fixed list — sourcing at this level changes with availability.
Cheese Store of Beverly Hills is located at 9705 S Santa Monica Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90210, Los Angeles.
The chef associated with Cheese Store of Beverly Hills is Dominick DiBartolomeo.
9705 S Santa Monica Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
Beverly Hills

Modern Seafood Fine Dining
Providence
Los Angeles, United States
★★★ · 50 Best

Modern Taiwanese Fine Dining
Kato
Los Angeles, United States
★★ · 50 Best

Modern Mexican Seafood
Holbox
Los Angeles, United States
★ · 50 Best

California-French Fine Dining
Mélisse
Los Angeles, United States
★★

Traditional Japanese Kaiseki
Hayato
Los Angeles, United States
★★

Modern Spanish Fine Dining
Somni
Los Angeles, United States
★★★ · 50 Best