Funke

Three Floors, One Very Clear Argument

Funke is a Beverly Hills restaurant serving Handmade Pasta Fine Dining at the $$$$ price tier, led by chef Evan Funke. Funke, on South Santa Monica Boulevard, breaks from that tradition without abandoning the theatre. The building runs three levels: a sprawling open kitchen and pasta laboratorio on the ground floor, a second dining room above it, and a rooftop bar that pulls a separate social orbit entirely. Walking in, the first thing you register is the laboratorio itself, pasta being stretched and shaped in full view, a working demonstration that sets the terms of the evening before a menu arrives. The scale of the open kitchen is deliberate; it positions the cooking as the spectacle rather than the decor or the clientele, even if both are conspicuous here.

Where Funke Sits in the Los Angeles Italian Conversation

Los Angeles has a serious Italian dining tradition, and the upper tier of that conversation is genuinely competitive. Osteria Mozza defined the category for years and still commands relevance. Angelini Osteria holds authority on the more intimate, neighbourhood-osteria end of the spectrum. Antico Nuovo and Bianca address different price and format points. Funke sits at the theatrical, destination-driven end of the tier: large, loud, visually demonstrative, and priced at the $$$$ bracket consistent with the comparable set. The LA Times placed it 25th among the city's 101 best restaurants in 2024, a ranking that confirms its position in the upper cohort without separating it entirely from the broader Italian category. Its Opinionated About Dining Casual North America ranking improved from #676 in 2024 to #609 in 2025, a modest but directionally positive movement. For context, the Michelin Plate sits below the star tier but above unrecognised restaurants in the guide's formal hierarchy.

Within the wider Los Angeles dining picture, Funke occupies a different register than the city's starred progressive formats. Venues like Kato (one Michelin star, New Taiwanese), Hayato (two Michelin stars, Japanese), and Vespertine (two Michelin stars, progressive) operate through tasting menus and controlled intimacy. Funke is à la carte, loud, and designed for groups as much as couples, a different proposition in the $$$$ tier, and one that broadens its accessibility relative to the tasting-menu circuit. If you want comparison points outside LA, the approach to chef-driven Italian pasta as fine-dining destination has parallels internationally: 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana in Hong Kong and cenci in Kyoto both demonstrate how Italian cooking travels when it is anchored to craft rather than geography.

The Pasta Laboratorio and What It Signals

The visible laboratorio is not a performance detail added to the design brief, it is the restaurant's central editorial statement. Handmade pasta at this level of operation requires significant labour investment; displaying that process publicly is a way of communicating that the cost is justified, and that the kitchen is not cutting corners. The LA Times critic's note is pointed: the arrabbiata described as reaching a "luscious harmony between the strands of al dente spaghetti," the tomato and chile working in balance rather than one overwhelming the other. The sfincione palermitano, a Sicilian format distinct from Neapolitan pizza, is described in detail worth quoting directly: dough painted with a jammy tomato and onion sauce, dressed with sharp cheese, wild oregano, and breadcrumbs, starting crisp and fading into an airy pillow. These are specific textural and flavour observations from a named critic, not generalisations, and they point to a kitchen operating with regional specificity rather than a broad "Italian" sweep.

The menu extends beyond pasta into meat cookery. The prime rib-eye cap, well crusted with crispy potatoes, draws specific mention as among the more satisfying meat-and-potato combinations in the city, a plain-spoken claim that is either true or it is not, and one that positions the kitchen as confident in secondary courses rather than coasting on pasta reputation alone. Shannon Swindle's desserts, particularly the seasonal crostata, are called out by name as worth saving space for, a logistical instruction as much as a recommendation, given that dinner here is not designed to leave much room.

The Sensory Register of the Room

Multi-level structure creates distinct atmospheric zones. The ground-floor dining room, positioned around the open kitchen and laboratorio, carries the noise and energy of active production, the sound of pasta work, the movement of line cooks, the ambient temperature of a working kitchen. The second dining room offers some separation from that energy. The rooftop bar functions as a venue within a venue, attracting a social crowd that may not be dining below, which means the building operates across multiple atmospheres simultaneously rather than maintaining a single controlled tone. This is not a quiet dinner proposition. The crowd tends to be stylish and well-connected, and reservations remain difficult to secure.

Planning a Visit

Funke operates Monday through Thursday from 5:00 to 9:45 pm, Friday and Saturday from 5:00 to 10:00 pm, and is closed on Sundays. Reservations are essential. The address is 9388 S Santa Monica Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90210.

Further Reading

For a broader view of dining in Los Angeles, see our full Los Angeles restaurants guide. For where to stay near Beverly Hills and beyond, consult our full Los Angeles hotels guide. For cocktail bars across the city, our full Los Angeles bars guide covers the current programs worth noting. Wine-focused readers should see our full Los Angeles wineries guide, and for structured cultural programming, our full Los Angeles experiences guide maps the current specialist tier. For chef-driven American formats elsewhere in the country, Le Bernardin in New York City, Lazy Bear in San Francisco, Alinea in Chicago, Single Thread Farm in Healdsburg, The French Laundry in Napa, and Emeril's in New Orleans each represent different points on the fine-dining spectrum. For Italian elsewhere in Los Angeles, Angelini Osteria and Antico Nuovo address the same cuisine category at different registers.