L'Écrin de Yohann Chapuis

Correction before the pass

Selecting, trimming, tasting, correcting, holding: that is the daily grammar for Adrien Delcourt, Chef at L'Écrin de Yohann Chapuis in Tournus. His role here is kitchen lead, present-tense and service-led, inside a house shaped by the Burgundian table and by the historic Maison Greuze address. Delcourt arrives with a formal French discipline built through demanding rooms rather than biography alone. He trained at L’ARÔME BY THE SEA, then held culinary roles at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Saint-Germain, L’Orangerie at Four Seasons George V, Le Pré Catelan in Paris, and Le Relais d'Auteuil. Leadership followed at Le Jules Verne in Paris, Café Martinique in Marina Village, Atlantis, Bahamas, and L’ARÔME BY THE SEA in Phuket from 2024. At L'Écrin, that route matters only when it becomes service: a sauce held at the right point, a plate finished without excess, a kitchen that keeps its tempo through a formal dining room. His earlier rooms taught polish; this station asks for continuity.

Burgundy through a controlled hand

The program works in the register of modern Burgundian fine dining, with tasting menu and prix fixe formats carrying the kitchen’s point of view. The product language is regional and exact: Bresse poultry, Saône fish such as carp and pike, Burgundy snails, Brillat-Savarin, and Époisses. The technique stays classical enough to let those materials stay legible, then turns with contemporary restraint. Published seasonal dishes have included oysters from Marennes with topinambour, snails with egg, spinach, and mustard jus, Saint-Jacques with pork cheek, venison in grand veneur sauce, sandre, and canette Miéral. Delcourt’s own signature register includes the “Vue Sur La Mer” menu and Gran Marnier Soufflé, two very different tests of control. One looks outward to water and horizon; the other gives the pass a narrow window between lift, heat, aroma, and collapse. The restaurant holds one Michelin star, while Delcourt’s personal Michelin recognition belongs to his time as Executive Chef of Le Jules Verne.

A quiet room of wood, leather, and velvet

The room does not ask the kitchen to shout. Wood, leather, velvet, soft blue and copper tones, enveloping banquettes, textured walls, and a central light well make a cocoon around the pass. It is a formal room, but the feeling is intimate rather than ceremonial; sound stays low, and the materials carry warmth without theatre. That matters for food built on timing. A soufflé leaving the kitchen needs a clear path. A mustard jus needs to arrive while its line is still clean. The counterpoint is the house itself, a historic Tournus location tied to Maison Greuze and renewed through the work of the Chapuis family. Delcourt’s station sits inside that memory, but his work happens in the present tense, plate by plate, through Gran Marnier Soufflé.