
Chef in Residence
Thomas Makkos
Chef

A Michelin Plate-recognised address in the Chianti hills, Nello brings modern technique to Tuscan tradition without abandoning the region's pantry. Chef Thomas Makkos and pastry chef Chiara have reoriented a historic local spot around precise, ingredient-led cooking, think Parmigiano from Reggiana red cows, chanterelle mushrooms, and a wine list anchored in nearby Chianti appellations. Straightforward pricing at €€ makes this one of the more accessible entries in the contemporary Tuscan dining tier.
<h2>Where Chianti Hills Cooking Has Arrived</h2><p>San Casciano in Val di Pesa sits at the geographic and culinary centre of Chianti Classico country, roughly equidistant between Florence and Siena on a ridge that has grown wine grapes and olives for centuries. The town's restaurant scene has historically operated in the shadow of its more famous neighbours, the enotecas of Florence, the agriturismo circuits of Greve, the grand tables of Panzano. What has shifted in recent years is a quiet upgrading of the cooking at a handful of local addresses, where young chefs are applying contemporary technique to the same larder that has fed this valley for generations. Nello is part of that shift.</p><p>The address on Via IV Novembre is a historic one in town, and the renovation that brought it to its current form is the kind of work that changes the register of a dining room without erasing its neighbourhood identity. Walking in, you encounter a space that has been rethought rather than reinvented: the bones of a traditional Tuscan trattoria remain legible, while the cooking that comes out of the kitchen now belongs to a different category. That tension between continuity and ambition is, in many ways, the defining characteristic of the contemporary Tuscan dining mode.</p><h2>The Tuscan Template, Retested</h2><p>Tuscan cuisine is one of Italy's most codified regional traditions. The canonical dishes, ribollita, bistecca alla Fiorentina, pappardelle al cinghiale, carry enormous cultural weight and command strict expectations. What Nello does, and what distinguishes the contemporary Tuscan approach from both the rustic trattoria and the haute Italian format found at places like <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/enoteca-pinchiorri">Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence</a>, is operate in the productive middle ground: technically disciplined cooking that remains tethered to the regional pantry rather than floating free of it into abstraction.</p><p>The Michelin Plate recognition the restaurant has carried in both 2024 and 2025 places it in the tier Michelin designates for kitchens producing food of good quality, below star level but above the undifferentiated field. For context, this is the same framework in which inspectors evaluate cooking on its merits rather than its concept or prestige. A Google rating of 4.8 across 635 reviews confirms that local and visiting diners are arriving at similar conclusions independently. Among the contemporary Tuscan addresses in this price bracket, that combination of institutional recognition and consistent public approval is not common.</p><p>The menu's approach is illustrated by one of its more technically demanding preparations: ravioli filled with Parmesan cream made specifically from the milk of Reggiana red cows, served with chanterelle mushrooms and onions. The choice of Reggiana milk, a designation tied to a specific breed in the Po Valley traditionally used for Parmigiano-Reggiano, signals an ingredient consciousness that goes beyond sourcing local produce as a general principle. The dish places technical pasta-making and sauce architecture in dialogue with a very specific dairy tradition. This is the kind of specificity that separates a kitchen with genuine curiosity from one that simply deploys seasonal ingredients as a selling point.</p><h2>The Wine List and Its Logic</h2><p>In Chianti country, a wine list has to answer a pointed question: do you double down on the local appellation or do you build something more exploratory? Nello's answer is to anchor the list in nearby Chiantis while leaving room for bottles from elsewhere. This is a sensible editorial position for a restaurant at this price point and in this location. Chianti Classico and its sub-zones produce some of Italy's most compelling Sangiovese-based wines, and a curated selection of producers from the surrounding hills gives a table here access to wines that are genuinely of the place, poured in the place where they were grown.</p><p>The concision of the list is also a feature. At the €€ price tier, a sprawling cellar is both financially impractical and editorially unfocused. A shorter, well-considered selection asks more of the sommelier or front-of-house team, and in a room where the team moves between the pastry kitchen and the floor, that personal knowledge of what is being poured matters more than catalogue breadth.</p><h2>Where This Sits in the Italian Contemporary Field</h2><p>The Italian contemporary category covers an enormous range of ambition and execution, from grand destination tables like <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/osteria-francescana">Osteria Francescana in Modena</a> or <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/dal-pescatore-runate-restaurant">Dal Pescatore in Runate</a> down through the mid-tier regional addresses that are doing the less-heralded but equally important work of keeping regional traditions technically alive. Nello sits clearly in the latter category, and that is not a diminishment. The restaurant's comparable set is not the three-star circuit, it is the growing cohort of Michelin Plate and Bib Gourmand addresses across Tuscany where a meal costs between €40 and €80 per head and where the kitchen's ambition is directed at cooking well rather than cooking spectacularly.</p><p>Nello occupies a different register entirely: less urban, less designed as a destination in the lifestyle sense, and more focused on the specific culinary argument that the Chianti hills can produce cooking worth travelling to find. The €€ pricing reflects that positioning honestly.</p><h2>Planning a Visit</h2><p>San Casciano in Val di Pesa is accessible by car from Florence in under thirty minutes, and the town itself is compact enough to explore on foot. The restaurant's address on Via IV Novembre places it in the centre of town. Reservations are recommended. The €€ price range positions a full meal as a fair-value proposition relative to comparable cooking in Florence proper, where the same level of Michelin recognition commands a meaningful premium. For those building a broader itinerary around the town,</p>
San Casciano in Val di Pesa is a working hill town with a family-oriented dining culture, and Nello's €€ pricing reflects that neighbourhood context. The restaurant occupies a historic local address renovated by Michele and Chiara, keeping the atmosphere grounded rather than formal. Nothing in Michelin's 2025 Plate recognition indicates a dress code or adult-only format.
Nello reads as a thoughtful renovation of a long-standing local address: the room has been brought up to a contemporary standard without erasing the historic fabric of the building. Michele runs the kitchen and Chiara works both pastry and front of house, which gives the operation a hands-on, owner-led character common to the better small-town Tuscan tables. The €€ price range and two consecutive Michelin Plates (2024, 2025) position it as a serious but accessible neighbourhood restaurant.
Nello has received recognition including: Michele, in the kitchen, and pastry chef Chiara, who also works front of house, have renovated this historic local address and transformed it into a restaurant offering a modern interpretation of Tuscan cuisine. On the varied and intriguing….
The dish Michelin inspectors specifically noted is the ravioli filled with Parmesan cream made from Reggiana red cow milk, served with chanterelle mushrooms and onions. Michelin describes it as intense and technically accomplished, which is a meaningful qualifier at the Plate level. Beyond that, the menu is described as varied and intriguing, drawing on a modern interpretation of Tuscan cuisine rather than a fixed tasting format.
Via IV Novembre, 66, 50026 San Casciano in Val di Pesa FI, Italy
San Casciano in Val di Pesa

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