
Chef in Residence
Noah Sandoval
Chef

Set in a Ukrainian Village alley and recognized by Opinionated About Dining's Cheap Eats list three consecutive years (2023 to 2025), Pizza Friendly Pizza trades on al fresco tables, hanging plants, and pan pizzas from a kitchen overseen by chef Noah Sandoval. The format is deliberate: a narrow, garden-trestle setting that rewards walk-ins and warm evenings in equal measure.
<h2>An Alley, Some Garden Tables, and a Serious Kitchen</h2><p>Ukrainian Village's dining scene is anchored by Pizza Friendly Pizza, a Chicago restaurant at 1039 N Western Ave serving modern Sicilian-style pizza. Pizza Friendly Pizza belongs to that last category: an alleyway operation at 1039 N Western Ave that sits closer in spirit to a Roman <em>forno</em> side project than to any American fast-casual formula.</p><p>Arrival matters here in a way it doesn't at a conventional dining room. The approach through the alley, the garden tables and trestles strung with hanging plants, and the deliberately compressed scale all signal that the format is the point. Al fresco dining in Chicago is conditional on about four months of genuinely good weather, which means the space operates under seasonal urgency from late spring through early autumn. When temperatures drop, takeaway becomes the default, and the experience shifts entirely. Come in summer; the open-air arrangement is part of the appeal.</p><h2>Where This Sits in Chicago's Pizza Conversation</h2><p>Chicago's pizza identity is often collapsed into a single image: the deep-dish, cheese-thick, knife-and-fork construction that tourists line up for on the Magnificent Mile. The actual working pizza culture of the city's neighbourhoods is more varied. Thin-crust tavern-style pizza, made in square or rectangular cuts and served at room temperature at the end of a bar, has deeper local roots than deep-dish for most Chicagoans. <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/coalfire-chicago-restaurant">Coalfire</a> operates at the Neapolitan-influenced thin-crust end of that spectrum on Grand Avenue. Pizza Friendly Pizza takes a different route: pan pizza, square-cut, with toppings that reflect a kitchen operating at a higher technical register than the format might suggest.</p><p>That technical register is not accidental. Chef Noah Sandoval's involvement places this project in an unusual competitive tier. Sandoval's primary reputation rests in the fine-dining register, a world away from a garden-alley pizza counter. The fact that a chef operating at that level is attached to a $$ alleyway spot is itself a marker of how Chicago's serious culinary talent has increasingly backed informal side projects, particularly post-2020. Compare that tendency with what has happened in other cities: <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/lazy-bear">Lazy Bear in San Francisco</a> and <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/le-bernardin">Le Bernardin in New York City</a> have remained firmly within their formal register, while Chicago has produced a disproportionate number of high-low pivots.</p><h2>The Food: Pan Pizza, Salads, and Sandwiches</h2><p>The menu runs across pan pizzas, salads, and sandwiches, with a drinks list that includes bottled Topo Chico and the house Pizzaberry tonic. The Opinionated About Dining citation specifically calls out a pizza square topped with soppressata, Castelvetrano olives, and maitake mushrooms, a combination that reflects Italian-American ingredient logic applied with care. Soppressata and Castelvetrano is a classic Italian pairing: the fatty, spiced pork against the buttery, mild brine of Sicilian green olives. Adding maitake introduces an earthy, layered dimension that pushes the combination beyond the expected.</p><p>The sandwiches extend that same logic. The OAD citation highlights one built around charred rapini, Taleggio, Agrumato lemon oil, and Calabrian chili, a combination that reads like a compressed southern-Italian pantry. Rapini's bitterness against Taleggio's soft funk, with the heat of Calabrian chili and the citrus brightness of Agrumato, is a study in contrast management. This is not the ingredient register of a neighbourhood slice shop.</p><h3>Thinking About Drinks and Food Together</h3><p>Pizza Friendly Pizza's food leans on Italian regional ingredients throughout, which creates a natural pairing logic even in the absence of a formal wine program. The soppressata-olive-maitake pizza calls for something with enough acidity and fruit to cut the fat without overwhelming the mushroom's delicacy, a light-bodied southern Italian red, a Frappato or young Nero d'Avola, would work well brought from a nearby bottle shop. The rapini-Taleggio sandwich, with its bitter-salty-spicy axis, is the kind of food that benefits from effervescence: the Topo Chico on the menu is not an afterthought in this context. For those bringing their own wine to a warm-evening alley table, a crisp Vermentino or a low-intervention Sicilian white handles the full menu range without competing with any single dish.</p><p>Italian pizza's relationship with wine is historically regional and unshowy. In Naples, pizza is beer or water. In Rome, it's house white from the Castelli Romani. The format at Pizza Friendly Pizza, with its garden-table informality and ingredient depth, sits somewhere between those two poles, which gives drinkers room to calibrate according to what they bring rather than what a sommelier selects.</p><h2>Recognition and Peer Context</h2><p>Three consecutive years on Opinionated About Dining's Cheap Eats in North America list, ranked 107th in 2023, 110th in 2024, and 115th in 2025, establishes a consistent critical baseline. OAD's Cheap Eats list is compiled from a survey-based methodology weighted toward frequent diners and industry professionals, which gives it different signal value than a single year's mention. Together, they position this as a spot that the serious-eating community in North America has noted across multiple cycles, not a single-season discovery.</p><p> Pizza Friendly Pizza's $$ pricing and informal format occupy a categorically different tier, but its sustained OAD placement means it is evaluated alongside serious cheap-eats operations nationally, not just measured against neighbourhood convenience.</p><p>Nationally, the premium pizza conversation in the US now includes projects like <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/pizzeria-bianco-los-angeles-restaurant">Pizzeria Bianco in Los Angeles</a> and <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/bettina-santa-barbara-restaurant">Bettina in Santa Barbara</a>, both of which apply serious culinary thinking to an accessible format. Pizza Friendly Pizza operates in that same national conversation, differentiated by its pan-pizza focus and the alley-garden format that makes it specifically Chicago in character.</p><p></p><h2>Know Before You Go</h2><table><tr><td>Address</td><td>1039 N Western Ave, Chicago, IL 60622</td></tr><tr><td>Hours</td><td>Monday–Friday 5 to 11 pm; Saturday–Sunday 12 to 11 pm</td></tr><tr><td>Price range</td><td>$$ (Cheap Eats tier)</td></tr><tr><td>Format</td><td>Al fresco alley seating (warm months); takeaway (year-round)</td></tr><tr><td>Chef</td><td>Noah Sandoval</td></tr><tr><td>Awards</td><td>OAD Cheap Eats North America 2023 (#107), 2024 (#110), 2025 (#115); Michelin Plate 2024</td></tr><tr><td>Google rating</td><td>4.4 from 299 reviews</td></tr></table>
The alleyway setting at 1039 N Western Ave — garden tables, trestles, hanging plants, open air — works well for families, particularly on weekends when the kitchen opens at noon. The $$ price point keeps the bill manageable. There is no formal indoor dining room, so the format suits children comfortable eating outside.
The restaurant occupies an alleyway in Ukrainian Village, with a handful of garden tables, wooden trestles, and hanging plants forming a compact outdoor room. Takeaway is the fallback when weather turns. The setting is informal by design — OAD's Cheap Eats panel cited the alfresco format specifically in their write-up across three consecutive rankings from 2023 to 2025.
Pizza Friendly Pizza has received recognition including: Opinionated About Dining Cheap Eats in North America Ranked #115 (2025); Secreted away in one of the many alleyways in Ukranian Village and amidst scores of other venues, this is an alfresco dinning delight. Takeaway is the other alternativ….
The pan pizza is the kitchen's defining output, and OAD's Cheap Eats citations across 2023, 2024, and 2025 reference a square topped with soppressata, Castelvetrano olives, and maitake mushrooms as the standout example. Sandwiches also draw attention — a version with charred rapini, Taleggio, Agrumato, and Calabrian chili appears in the same OAD notes. Chef Noah Sandoval's involvement ties the food to a more serious culinary context than the price point suggests.
1039 N Western Ave, Chicago, IL 60622
Ukrainian Village

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