Boris Campanella

Today, Boris Campanella is Executive Chef of L'Écrin, Hôtel de Crillon.

At L'Écrin, the menu starts with the bottle, not the sequence of courses. Under Boris Campanella, the kitchen works without a set menu, shaping each table’s meal around the chosen wine so that service is built in the room, in real time. That method makes the dining room intimate by design: the same kitchen structure can produce different menus at different tables, with no two experiences landing on the same plate. That format also places local produce at the center of the work.

The wine sets the direction, but the cooking stays anchored to produce that can carry the pacing and precision the room asks for. The result is a style of service that stays controlled while still allowing each table to move on its own terms. For the kitchen, the discipline is in matching the wine without flattening the meal. Campanella’s role is to keep that balance exacting: dishes have to read clearly against the bottle, the room, and the moment, while the operation stays seamless behind the scenes. At L'Écrin, the craft is less about repetition than about maintaining control inside a format built to change.