i. Biography
The Trajectory
Dessert-led omakase depends on timing, restraint and sequence rather than the usual savory-to-sweet arc. At Yama, Koichi Katsumata works as Executive Chef in a format where sweetness is not the finish but the structure of the meal. The craft requirement is narrow and demanding: acidity, bitterness, perfume, temperature and texture have to carry progression course by course without turning the menu into a series of confections. Fruit, herbs, vegetables and fragrance are treated as primary materials in this register, not as garnish or decoration. Katsumata’s cooking places those ingredients under close inspection, with composition built around clarity and pacing. The work is less about novelty than control: each course has to justify its place in the sequence and hold attention through the ingredient itself.
The Current Chapter
An eight-course dessert omakase asks for a different kind of menu logic. The format gives Koichi Katsumata room to move through fruit, herbs, vegetables, fragrance and texture as a complete meal. The progression can turn bright, aromatic, softly bitter, delicate, temperature-led or sharply contrasting, but the connective work is judgment: choosing the ingredient for the moment and keeping the course focused enough for that moment to read. Treating fruit with the same care as sushi places selection and timing at the center of the craft. Katsumata’s stated approach at the restaurant is to aim for peak flavor and aroma, which means ripeness, scent, juiciness and balance become working conditions rather than background qualities. The pairing has to support the fruit without covering it. In that context, restraint is not decorative minimalism; it is a technical decision. Dessert-only dining also asks to be evaluated as dining, not as an addendum to it. Katsumata has said, "The Guide evaluates the dining experience — so why should a dessert-only experience be an exception?" At Yama, that position is built into the format: dessert as a full menu, with delicacy, sweetness, acidity and aroma carrying the same burden of structure normally assigned to savory courses.
Signature
Signature dishes include Mikan paired with red sansho.
Recognition
Koichi's honors include One Michelin Star for Yama, Japan's first Michelin star for an assiette dessert restaurant (2024) and Ranked #156 in Japan for Yama (2025).
Profile updated July 2026
FAQ
Asked of Koichi
What is Koichi Katsumata's current position?
Koichi Katsumata is chef at Yama — Creative.
What recognition has Koichi Katsumata received?
One Michelin Star for Yama, Japan's first Michelin star for an assiette dessert restaurant (2024).
What is Koichi Katsumata known for?
Dessert-focused fine dining built around seasonally sourced fruit from farms across Japan.
