Portrait of Shusaku Toba
i. Biography
His own words keep the work grounded: “Cooking is a means; the purpose is to make people happy.” The other line sharpens the standard behind it: “I think sense is the ability to choose the best answer for the situation.” Taken together, they frame a kitchen practice built on judgment, timing, and care — not as performance, but as the daily task of deciding what fits, and delivering it cleanly.
The Sunday email
Read about chefs like Shusaku Toba in the Sunday email.
Every Sunday we send a lead story and up to four more about the chefs, winemakers, sommeliers and hoteliers behind the restaurants, bars, wineries and hotels we cover.
Recent stories
Free. One email a week, and you can unsubscribe from any issue.
Coming Up
Since 2018, sio has carried Shusaku Toba as Owner Chef, while Kodama has also been part of his working life as chef. The two roles point to different kinds of responsibility: one tied to ownership, the other to the direct demands of service. Read together, they show a career shaped by consistency in the kitchen and by the kind of trust that comes from repeated, careful decisions.
Where They Are Now
At Kodama, he works as chef. That role lives inside repetition: the pace of service, the need to respond to what is in front of him, and the discipline of making the right call at the right moment. In that setting, “sense” is not theory; it is the practical skill of balancing flavor, timing, and purpose so the result arrives with clarity.
In Their Words “I think sense is the ability to choose the best answer for the situation.” This puts discernment at the center of the craft. Sense, in this reading, is not decoration or instinct alone, but the ability to assess what a moment requires and answer it well. It is a working standard for both cooking and service. “Cooking is a means; the purpose is to make people happy.” Here the craft is defined by its effect, not its self-importance. Cooking is the tool; the aim is the response it creates.
Honors
Awards — none listed.
FAQ
Asked of Shusaku
Who is Shusaku Toba?
Chef at Kodama.
What is Shusaku Toba's nationality?
Japanese.
What is Shusaku Toba's craft?
Chef — Kodama (Nishiazabu, Tokyo, Japan).
The Sunday email
Read about chefs like Shusaku Toba in the Sunday email.
Every Sunday we send a lead story and up to four more about the chefs, winemakers, sommeliers and hoteliers behind the restaurants, bars, wineries and hotels we cover.
Recent stories
Free. One email a week, and you can unsubscribe from any issue.