
Bibi Graetz, winemaker at Aurora Winery in Rachkiddeh, works estate fruit from high Batroun mountain terraces with care.
Handpicked fruit comes off steep terraces before Bibi Graetz, winemaker at Aurora Winery in Rachkiddeh, begins the cellar work. The place asks for that order. Aurora sits in the Batroun hills, above the village of Rachkiddeh, where the vineyard rises at 850 to 900 meters and the rows sit on narrow mountain terraces. The craft begins with ground that cannot be rushed: argillic soils, ferric clay, limestone plates, hot days, cool nights, and enough slope to keep machines out of the most important work. Graetz brings a visual education to the bench, having studied at Accademia delle Belle Arti in Florence before making wine in Tuscany. Here, that training reads less as decoration than as proportion. Line, texture, balance and restraint are not abstractions when the fruit has to carry altitude, acidity and mineral edge into the glass. Aurora opened in 2016 as a small mountain winery, built around sustainable farming and a limited scale. Its discipline is estate fruit, low yields, and the long route from terrace to cellar.
The method at Aurora stays close to the vineyard. The estate works without purchased fruit, drawing from parcels established in 2009 and 2012, and holds the crop to 10 to 12 grape clusters per vine. That number matters. It is a vineyard decision before it is a cellar decision, a way of asking each plant to concentrate its work rather than spread it thin. Dry farming relies on rainfall instead of irrigation, while organic cattle fertilizer returns matter to the soil without synthetic intervention. Harvest typically falls in the last week of August, when the fruit is picked by hand, de-stalked and crushed. The winery makes still red, white and rosé wines, with Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Carignan, Obaideh and Merwah among the varieties associated with the estate. Fermentation is described in practical terms rather than theatrical ones: controlled, restrained, and aimed at preserving the aromatics carried by altitude. The flagship Aurora Crystal Chardonnay is built around stone fruit, citrus and mineral complexity, with acidity held intact by the Batroun mountain conditions.
The tasting room here does not separate the wine from the slope that made it. Guided vineyard tastings move through a quiet, nature-focused setting, and the garden gives the place its slower rhythm: mountain views, al fresco meals, the kind of lunch that lets the cellar and the terraces stay in the same conversation. The room is not loud. Aurora’s atmosphere is closer to a pause in the work than a performance of it, with the vineyard still visible as the main fact. The pass, in this case, is the handoff between soil, cellar and table. The glass arrives with the mountain still in it.
Aurora’s own language reaches back to Lebanon’s 5,000-year wine legacy, and the reference is strongest when kept close to the land. The Batroun hills have carried vines for centuries, but this address makes its case through present work: terraces maintained by hand, estate fruit, dry farming, and a cellar scaled to attention. If the next vintage changes anything, it will begin on those same Rachkiddeh terraces and move, cluster by cluster, toward Aurora Crystal Chardonnay.
Rachkiddeh, Mont Liban, Lebanon
Rachkiddeh