
Chef in Residence
Thibault Vial
Winemaker
Thibault Vial, winemaker at Domaine Les Roques de Cana in Les Roques, shapes Cahors Malbec from iron-rich limestone terraces.
The sorting table sets the pace for Thibault Vial, winemaker at Domaine Les Roques de Cana in Les Roques, Saint Vincent Rive D Olt. Fruit arrives from the Causse de Saint-Vincent-Rive-d’Olt, and the first decision is still a hand decision: what is clean enough, ripe enough, and sound enough to enter the vat. Vial’s path to that bench was never a single corridor. He trained at IUT Lyon 1 and Ekonomická univerzita v Bratislave, then moved through accounting, banking, field labor, hospitality, teaching, and estate management before taking the gérant role here in 2024. His own account of the place begins earlier: “Il y a 10 ans jour pour jour, je faisais mes premiers pas ici en alternance (compta, vigne, vente, administration…).” That sequence matters because this is not only cellar work. It is administration, vineyard rhythm, sales, and the discipline of keeping a Cahors estate awake through daily choices. Vial has called the domaine “La belle endormie,” a sleeping beauty gradually finding its place again. The phrase is useful because it is patient. It leaves room for repair.
The estate works from argilo-limestone and ferruginous terraces at roughly 350 meters, where Malbec can hold color and tension without losing lift. The vines average 40 years in age, and the cellar answers that material with control rather than force: sorting by table and vibrating equipment, temperature-managed alcoholic and malolactic fermentations, long macerations, and élevage adjusted by cuvée. Stainless steel and cement keep freshness in play; French oak gives certain wines more depth. Malbec leads, with Merlot and Tannat in the vocabulary, and the range moves beyond Cahors AOC red into white, rosé, sparkling, sweet, fortified wine, and spirits. The house’s own phrasing for the style is exact: “Un match subtil entre gras & acidité, signature de notre terroir du Causse.” In the glass, that means dark fruit, purple depth, and mineral line are not treated as opposites. The work is to let weight and acidity hold each other.
The place sits above the Lot on the Causse de Saint-Vincent-Rive-d’Olt, where rocky outcrops, clay-limestone, and iron in the soil give the vineyard its particular pressure. The room is quiet by nature. Walks through the vines lead back toward a modern, thermoregulated cellar, and tastings tend to sit close to the material: Malbec, soil, vat, barrel, time. Visitors often note the welcome and the grounds, but the stronger texture is slower than hospitality language allows. It is the pause before a pour of Sanguis Christi, the look back toward the terraces, the sense that the tasting room belongs to a working estate rather than a display.
Cahors carries more than 2,000 years of viticultural memory, and this estate places that inheritance inside a present-tense program rather than behind glass. Sustainable farming without chemical inputs or fertilizers gives the vineyard work its frame, while the cellar keeps the wines precise enough to avoid heaviness. Vial’s task now is continuity with movement: to keep the domaine’s older name in conversation with the next vintage, the next sorting pass, the next blend. For now, the line gathers most clearly around Sanguis Christi.
Saint-Vincent-Rive-d’Olt, Île-de-France, Frankreich
Les Roques