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    Chef

    Ryota Yamagai

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    Chef
    Portrait of Ryota Yamagai

    Portrait of Ryota Yamagai

    i. Biography

    Ryota Yamagai is Executive Chef at Shintaku in Murakami, Niigata, Japan, where the kitchen is built around locality rather than display. The work starts with the landscape and waters around Murakami, then narrows to the daily task of choosing what is freshest, most fitting, and most in season. At Shintaku, place is not an idea layered on top of the food; it is the basis of the menu.

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    The Path

    Today, Ryota Yamagai is Executive Chef of Shintaku. That role puts him inside a kitchen shaped by restraint, precision, and close attention to what the region can supply. His method stays rooted in Murakami, with the area’s character setting the pace of the cooking. The result is food that reads as immediate and grounded, with each dish tied to the day’s conditions.

    The Work Today

    As Executive Chef, he works from the region around Murakami, letting local fish and seasonal ingredients determine the structure of the kitchen. The produce of the area supports the cooking, but fish remains central, and he returns to it with clear intent. The approach is practical: use what the waters provide carefully, and let the particular qualities of the catch stay visible. He has described one impulse behind that fish work plainly: “It came about because we wanted to make the most of this type of fish.”

    The line is spare, but it names the method well. The goal is not embellishment, only a disciplined effort to bring out as much as possible from a local ingredient and leave its character intact.

    Signature

    Ryota’s signature dishes include Broiled mahata (sevenband grouper). The dish follows the same working logic as the rest of the kitchen: local fish, seasonality, and attention to what the ingredient already offers. It is not a break from the house style so much as a concentrated version of it—regional, direct, and tied to the moment.

    In Their Words “It came about because we wanted to make the most of this type of fish.”

    Acclaim

    The main recognition attached to Yamagai is the position itself: Executive Chef at Shintaku. That standing comes through responsibility and trust rather than a long list of awards, which fits a kitchen so closely linked to place. His work is defined by local Murakami ingredients, local fish, and seasonality, handled in the setting that gives the cooking its meaning. In Murakami, the craft and the place are inseparable, and that is where Yamagai’s cooking has its force.

    ii

    FAQ

    Asked of Ryota

    • What is Ryota Yamagai's current role?

      As of 2026, Ryota Yamagai is Executive Chef.

    • What is Ryota Yamagai known for?

      Using Local Murakami ingredients and local fish with seasonal ingredients.

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    Every Sunday we send a lead story and up to four more about the chefs, winemakers, sommeliers and hoteliers behind the restaurants, bars, wineries and hotels we cover.

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