Jacquart

The blend begins with cellar memory

Floriane Eznack worked the blend from the cellar outward as winemaker for Jacquart in Grafschaft, keeping Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier in conversation before the wine reaches the glass. Her authority was built in the daily mechanics of Champagne work: cellar movement, tasting, adjustment, and the patience required by bottles that do not answer quickly. Born in the Cognac area of France, she came to wine through the practical side of the trade, then worked as assistant winemaker at Veuve Clicquot before serving as chef de cave, cellar master, at Champagne Jacquart in Reims, France, from 2011–2019.

At the Grafschaft outpost, Floriane Eznack stands less as a public figure than as a cellar-trained hand inside a house language. She has described her approach without rigidity: “I have no rules. We can experiment and continue to build a future.” In Champagne, that freedom only carries weight when it is held against discipline. The blend has to keep its line. The mousse has to serve the wine, not cover it. The house style depends on decisions made before the tasting room ever opens.

Three grapes held to one line

Jacquart’s work here is sparkling wine, shaped around Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, with a sustainable production philosophy and a prestige scale rather than a broad, casual one. What can be read clearly is the discipline of Champagne blending: acidity, fruit, texture, dosage, and time held in proportion until the wine carries freshness without losing breadth.

Eznack’s known signatures, Brut Mosaique, 2006 Cuvée Alpha, and Alpha Rosé 2010, sit inside that same grammar of consistency and controlled variation. Those wines are not useful here as trophies; they are evidence of the bench she comes from. Champagne asks a maker to repeat without becoming automatic, to adjust without breaking continuity. In Grafschaft, that means the tasting room receives wines already shaped by a long sequence of small decisions, each one quiet enough to disappear if it has been made well.

A quiet room above the vineyards

The room is modern, with panoramic vineyard views and a design that keeps contemporary lines in conversation with classical Champagne cues. It is an intimate setting rather than a large hall, and the atmosphere stays quiet enough for the glass to set the pace. In a sparkling-wine tasting room, that matters. The first pour needs room for bead, aroma, and temperature to register before anyone reaches for explanation.

Grafschaft gives the house a German address for a Champagne name, and that small displacement changes the encounter. The wines still speak in the language of the appellation, but the visitor reads them from a room looking out over vineyard land in Germany. The counter, the glassware, the stillness of the tasting room, and the view all keep attention on one concrete thing: Jacquart’s Champagne in Grafschaft.