David Sampedro Gil, winemaker at DSG Vineyards – David Sampredo Gil in Hormilla, works Rioja through estate fruit and village expression.
David Sampedro Gil works the fruit before it reaches the tank, as winemaker at DSG Vineyards – David Sampredo Gil in Hormilla. At the bench-side of this Rioja project, he is not only reading must and barrel, but vine, soil, exposure and the human hand that brought the crop in. David Sampedro Gil was born and raised in Elvillar, and his public account of the work stays close to that ground: “The limestone soil, vines, microclimate, and the human element give our wines a unique personality.” The house is also known as Bodegas Bhilar, a name drawn from Elvillar, and David founded the winery in 2008 with Melanie Hickman. His career remains tied to the village and to Bodegas Bhilar, where the task is less a matter of styling Rioja than of keeping separate places legible in the glass. The role suits a grower-winemaker: pruning decisions, picking dates, fermentations and élevage sit within one chain of attention. Tempranillo and Viura give the most direct outline of the cellar’s language, but the larger discipline is village expression, handled without the scale or gloss of a large Rioja house.
The estate work covers approximately 46 hectares of vineyards in Rioja Alavesa, with sites described around Elvillar and soils led by calcareous clay. Elevations are given as 500 to 700 meters, enough variation for a winemaker to treat each parcel as more than a supply line. David’s method leans sustainable, with reduced chemical use, canopy work and soil health named as part of the practice. The winery works with estate fruit, which keeps the argument close: the same hands that judge the vine must answer for the fermenting wine. In the cellar, the range includes stainless steel and concrete tanks, with some reds given extended maceration. French oak enters the program for flagship reds such as Lágrimas de Graciano, where aging is described at 12 to 18 months. That figure matters because Graciano can carry color and tension, but it can also lose its edge under too much wood. Here the barrel is meant to frame fruit and site, not cover them. Phincas, Phinca Abejera, Phinca Lali, Bhilar tinto and Bhilar Berria sit in David’s signature line of work.
The setting is rural rather than theatrical, with the winery held near vineyard and countryside rather than an urban room built for spectacle. The cellar and tasting room are described in the register of a small, family-run producer, quiet enough for the practical sounds to lead: hoses moved across the floor, glass rinsed, a barrel checked, a tank opened and shut. Melanie Hickman’s part in the house centers on business and hospitality, the layer that lets the technical work keep its focus without making the place feel sealed off. The atmosphere follows the wine program. It is rustic, scenic and low-key, more hidden workshop than destination stage, with the vineyard still the first room of the winery.
The significance of DSG Vineyards lies in how it narrows Rioja back to municipality, soil and grower. Since 2017, Rioja has allowed Vino de Municipio labeling for producers who meet its requirements, including work tied to a specific municipality and quality controls. David’s language was already moving in that direction, through Elvillar, estate fruit and named phincas. The useful close is not a claim of novelty, but the continuity of the gesture: limestone, vine, microclimate and the human element meeting again in Lágrimas de Graciano.
Hormilla, La Rioja, Spanien
Hormilla