Chef in Residence
Franky Ho
Chef

Four Kings landed on Commercial Street in San Francisco's Chinatown with credentials that demand attention: Esquire's number-one new restaurant in the United States for 2024, back-to-back Michelin Plates, and a Pearl recommendation. The cooking by Franky Ho and Micjael Long anchors in Chinese technique at the $$ price point, placing it among the neighbourhood's most awarded casual tables.
<h2>Fire, Speed, and the Geometry of Chinese Cooking</h2><p>Commercial Street sits at the edge of San Francisco's Chinatown, a block that accumulates noise and foot traffic without ever quite turning into a destination. Four Kings changed that. The room is shaped by the rhythm of a working kitchen at high heat and a casual Chinese dining room stripped of the red-lantern theatrics that once defined how Chinatown restaurants announced themselves. What you hear first is the wok.</p><p>High-heat Chinese cooking is one of the most technically demanding formats in any kitchen. Wok hei, that faintly smoky, breath-of-the-wok quality that defines well-executed stir-fry, requires temperatures that most commercial ranges cannot sustain, and timing measured in seconds rather than minutes. The technique separates restaurants that replicate the visual of Chinese food from those actually cooking it. At Four Kings, chefs Franky Ho and Micjael Long work within that tradition deliberately, and the awards record confirms the results register.</p><h2>What the Award Stack Actually Means</h2><p>Esquire naming Four Kings its number-one new restaurant in the United States for 2024 is a mainstream editorial verdict from a publication that does not typically weight Chinatown casual tables in its rankings. A Michelin Plate in both 2024 and 2025 signals that Michelin's inspectors kept returning after the initial visit, which is a different data point from a single-year recognition. The Pearl recommendation and an Opinionated About Dining Casual North America listing for 2025 add two more signals in the same lane.</p><p>Taken together, these recognitions position Four Kings in a specific bracket: not the $$$$ Chinatown-adjacent territory of Mister Jiu's, which operates at a different price tier and compositional register, and not the market-hall format of <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/china-live-san-francisco-restaurant">China Live</a>. Four Kings is a $$ restaurant that has been awarded at a level typically reserved for rooms charging twice as much. That asymmetry between price and recognition is the clearest signal the venue sends.</p><h2>Chinese Cooking in San Francisco's Competitive Frame</h2><p>San Francisco's Chinese dining scene spans more ground than most international cities can claim. The Bay Area has the largest Chinese-American population in the continental United States, and the result is a restaurant ecology that runs from specialist regional cooking, Sichuan at <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/chuan-yu-san-francisco-restaurant">Chuan Yu</a>, dumpling-focused precision at <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/dumpling-home-san-francisco-restaurant">Dumpling Home</a>, to heritage Cantonese bakeries like <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/golden-gate-bakery-san-francisco-restaurant">Golden Gate Bakery</a>, which has operated on Grant Avenue since 1956.</p><p>Within that context, Four Kings enters as something the city's Chinese dining scene has historically underproduced: a casual-format Chinese restaurant that competes on technique-first cooking while remaining accessible on price. The comparison set for this kind of positioning is not the city's Michelin three-star rooms like Benu, where Chinese culinary reference points get filtered through a fine-dining compositional logic. It is the working Chinese restaurant that takes wok technique seriously enough to earn sustained critical attention without restructuring itself as a special-occasion destination.</p><p>That is a harder position to hold than it sounds. The casual tier of Chinese cooking in American cities tends to attract either nostalgic loyalty or price-led traffic rather than critical scrutiny. Earning a spot on Opinionated About Dining's casual North America list alongside Esquire's leading ranking requires cooking that reads legibly to audiences with very different frameworks for evaluation.</p><h2>The Broader San Francisco Table</h2><p>San Francisco's overall dining scene in 2024 and 2025 has continued to produce serious cooking across price tiers, with the $$$$ bracket anchored by progressively American-inflected rooms like Lazy Bear and Saison, and by Michelin three-star tables at Atelier Crenn and Quince. Four Kings operates in a different register from all of those, but the critical infrastructure that pays attention to high-end French-influenced tasting menus is now also paying attention to technically demanding Chinese casual cooking. That shift in critical attention is reflected in Four Kings' award record.</p><p>For readers travelling to San Francisco specifically to eat across the city's range, Four Kings fits into a sequence alongside the neighbourhood's specialists. It sits in Chinatown proper at 710 Commercial Street, which places it walkably close to several other concentrated dining blocks. The $$ price point means it reads differently on an itinerary than a table at <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/the-french-laundry">The French Laundry in Napa</a> or <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/single-thread">Single Thread Farm in Healdsburg</a>, both of which anchor the premium day-trip options from the city.</p><p>For those building a comparative picture of how Chinese cooking sits within North American dining at large, the conversation now extends well beyond the Bay Area. <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/restaurant-tim-raue-berlin-restaurant">Restaurant Tim Raue in Berlin</a> and <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/velrosier-kyoto-restaurant">VELROSIER in Kyoto</a> represent how Chinese culinary logic has been interpreted at fine-dining register outside of Asia. Four Kings argues that the most interesting version of that conversation is happening at the casual tier, in a Chinatown, at a price point that keeps the room honest.</p><p>See our full guides to <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/san-francisco-paris-restaurant">San Francisco restaurants</a>, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/san-francisco-paris-restaurant">San Francisco hotels</a>, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/san-francisco-paris-restaurant">San Francisco bars</a>, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/san-francisco-paris-restaurant">San Francisco wineries</a>, and San Francisco experiences to plan the wider trip. For reference points across the US fine-dining spectrum, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/le-bernardin">Le Bernardin in New York</a>, Emeril's in New Orleans, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/alinea">Alinea in Chicago</a>, and <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/providence">Providence in Los Angeles</a> all occupy different poles of American restaurant culture from where Four Kings sits.</p><h2>Know Before You Go</h2><div style="background:#f7f5f0;padding:1.25rem 1.5rem;border-left:4px solid #c8a96e;margin:2rem 0;"><p>Address: 710 Commercial St, San Francisco, CA 94108</p><p>Cuisine: Chinese</p><p>Price: $$ (casual tier)</p><p>Awards: Esquire Leading New Restaurants #1 (2024), Michelin Plate (2024 & 2025), Pearl Recommended Restaurant (2025), Opinionated About Dining Casual North America (2025)</p><p>Google Rating: 4.1 from 225 reviews</p><p>Chefs: Franky Ho & Micjael Long</p><p>Booking: Contact the restaurant directly for reservations; no booking link on file at time of publication</p><p>Location context: Chinatown, walkable from the Financial District and North Beach</p></div>
Nothing in the venue's award profile or positioning signals a child-focused format, but the casual price tier and neighbourhood setting on Commercial Street suggest a relaxed environment rather than a formal one. The $$ price range puts it well below San Francisco's tasting-menu circuit, which generally means less ceremony around table conduct. Confirming directly with the restaurant before visiting with young children is advisable.
Four Kings sits on Commercial Street at the edge of San Francisco's Chinatown, a block defined more by working-city energy than destination foot traffic. Esquire ranking it the number-one new restaurant in the United States for 2024 alongside a Michelin Plate and OAD Casual recognition points to serious cooking delivered without the formality of the $$$$ tier. The $$ price range confirms an accessible, informal room rather than a white-tablecloth setting.
Four Kings has received recognition including: Opinionated About Dining Casual in North America (2025); Michelin Plate (2025); Pearl Recommended Restaurant (2025); Michelin Plate (2024); Esquire Best New Restaurants #1 (2024).
What the awards do confirm is that the Chinese cooking coming out of Franky Ho and Michael Long's kitchen was strong enough to earn Esquire's top new restaurant ranking nationally in 2024, alongside Michelin Plate recognition in both 2024 and 2025. For current menu specifics, checking directly with the restaurant on Commercial Street is the most reliable route.
Pricing at Four Kings is listed as $$.
Four Kings is located at 710 Commercial St, San Francisco, CA 94108, San Francisco.
710 Commercial St, San Francisco, CA 94108
Chinatown

Modern Fire-Forward Fine Dining
Saison
San Francisco, United States
★★ · 50 Best

Modern French Fine Dining
Quince
San Francisco, United States
★★★ · 50 Best

Atelier Crenn
San Francisco, United States
★★★ · 50 Best

Modern Asian Fusion Fine Dining
Benu
San Francisco, United States
★★★ · 50 Best

New Nordic Fine Dining
Sons & Daughters
San Francisco, United States
★★ · 50 Best

Innovative
Lazy Bear
San Francisco, United States
★★ · 50 Best