
Chef in Residence
Masatoshi "Gari" Sugio
Chef

Operating out of Hell's Kitchen since the 1990s, Sushi of Gari has spent three decades refining a counter format that sits outside the city's omakase arms race. Ranked #390 on Opinionated About Dining's North America list in 2025, it draws a loyal evening clientele across a tight Tuesday-through-Saturday service window. The chef behind it, Masatoshi 'Gari' Sugio, built the restaurant around a creative approach to nigiri that New York's sushi scene has spent years arguing about.
<h2>A Counter That Predates the Omakase Boom</h2><p>New York's sushi market has reorganised itself considerably over the past decade. The arrival of ultra-premium omakase rooms, some charging north of $500 per seat, has compressed the middle tier and sharpened the distinction between accessible neighbourhood sushi and destination counters. Sushi of Gari operates in Hell's Kitchen on West 46th Street, and its position in the current market reflects that longer arc. It operates from a Hell's Kitchen address on West 46th Street, a neighbourhood more associated with pre-theatre dining than serious Japanese counter work, which places it at a slight remove from the Midtown and downtown corridors where the city's more recently launched omakase rooms have concentrated.</p><p>That geography is relevant. The Restaurant Row stretch of 46th Street runs a mixed field: Italian-American red-sauce rooms, French brasseries, and midprice crowd-pleasers aimed at theatre-goers. Sushi of Gari has held its ground in that context for three decades, which says something about its standing with the city's repeat diners rather than one-time occasion spenders. For comparison, counters like <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/joji-new-york-city-restaurant">Joji</a> and <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/shion-69-leonard-street">Shion 69 Leonard Street</a> operate in a different register entirely, with booking windows that stretch months out and price points that place them in the same conversation as <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/bar-masa-new-york-city-restaurant">Bar Masa</a>. Sushi of Gari occupies a different tier: more accessible, less ceremony-driven, and built around a creative nigiri format rather than the ingredient-and-silence orthodoxy of the leading omakase rooms.</p><h2>The Evening Service: Where the Counter Earns Its Recognition</h2><p>The editorial angle assigned to this page asks about the lunch versus dinner divide, but the answer here is simple: Sushi of Gari runs dinner only. Monday through Saturday, service opens at 11:45am and closes at 9:15pm on weekdays, with Friday and Saturday extending to 9:30pm. Sunday is dark. There is no daytime option, no abbreviated lunch counter, no midday variation. This puts the full weight of the restaurant's reputation on a weekly schedule that includes lunch and dinner service, with Sunday closed.</p><p>That compression shapes the room's energy. Evening-only service, particularly at a counter that has operated for this long, tends to attract a different crowd than a lunch-accessible venue. The regulars know the format, the staff knows the regulars, and the rhythm of the counter develops from that familiarity. Opinionated About Dining has tracked the restaurant across three consecutive years: Recommended in 2023, #407 in 2024, and a climb to #390 in North America in 2025. That upward movement in a ranking system weighted toward serious repeat visits suggests the evening program is performing consistently rather than trading on legacy alone.</p><p>For readers considering a first visit, the implications are practical. If your schedule only allows daytime sushi, this is not the venue. If you want the full creative nigiri format that Gari Sugio built the restaurant around, an evening counter seat on a weeknight is the correct approach. Weekend evenings on 46th Street carry the Theatre District crowd, which changes the street-level energy considerably without necessarily affecting the counter itself.</p><h2>Where Sushi of Gari Sits in the New York Counter Hierarchy</h2><p>New York now sustains a relatively large population of serious sushi counters across multiple price tiers. At the leading end, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/sushi-shio">Sushi Sho</a> operates on strict omakase terms with a master-apprentice lineage that connects directly to Tokyo's counter tradition. Further down the accessibility spectrum, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/blue-ribbon-sushi-new-york-city-restaurant">Blue Ribbon Sushi</a> handles volume across late hours without pretending to be a destination counter. Sushi of Gari sits between those poles, with Opinionated About Dining recognition that places it among serious North American sushi rooms while operating without the Michelin hardware or the four-figure price tags of the top tier.</p><p>The global sushi reference points worth understanding here involve the creative nigiri tradition, which runs counter to the strict seasonality-and-minimalism model that defines counters like <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/harutaka-tokyo-restaurant">Harutaka in Tokyo</a> or <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/sushi-shikon-hong-kong-restaurant">Sushi Shikon in Hong Kong</a>. Gari Sugio's approach involves prepared toppings and cooked elements on nigiri, a format that divides purists but created a distinct New York style in the 1990s that other counters subsequently borrowed from. That contribution to the city's sushi grammar has proven durable even as the market has moved toward stripped-down omakase orthodoxy. The 4.4 Google rating across 635 reviews reflects a broad audience that continues to find the format compelling rather than a cult following protecting a legacy.</p><h2>The Competitive Context: What OAD Recognition Signals</h2><p>Opinionated About Dining's North America ranking draws from a survey base of serious restaurant travellers and food professionals rather than general public voting. A position at #390 in 2025, improved from #407 in 2024, places Sushi of Gari in a field that includes Michelin-starred rooms, James Beard-recognised kitchens, and widely celebrated tasting menu counters. For reference, other venues tracked by EP Club that appear in similar OAD recognition territory across North America include destination addresses like Emeril's in New Orleans, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/lazy-bear">Lazy Bear in San Francisco</a>, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/alinea">Alinea in Chicago</a>, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/the-french-laundry">The French Laundry in Napa</a>, <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/single-thread">Single Thread Farm in Healdsburg</a>, and <a href="https://www.enprimeurclub.com/restaurants/providence">Providence in Los Angeles</a>. Holding a ranked position in that company, without Michelin stars and from a Hell's Kitchen address, is a credential worth taking at face value.</p><p>The year-on-year improvement in OAD ranking suggests the kitchen has not stood still. What it does confirm is that the restaurant is gaining rather than losing ground in a ranking cohort where many legacy venues slide as newer rooms accumulate survey visits.</p><h2>Planning Your Visit</h2><p>Sushi of Gari operates from its Hell's Kitchen location at 347 West 46th Street. Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 5:00pm to 9:45pm; closed Monday and Sunday. Budget: Around $150 per person. Dress: Smart casual.</p>
Sushi of Gari has received recognition including: Opinionated About Dining Top Restaurants in North America Ranked #390 (2025); Opinionated About Dining Top Restaurants in North America Ranked #407 (2024); Opinionated About Dining Top Restaurants in North America Recommended (2023).
The chef associated with Sushi of Gari is Masatoshi "Gari" Sugio.
Sushi of Gari built its reputation on creative nigiri preparations that depart from strict Edomae convention, with Chef Masatoshi 'Gari' Sugio applying cooked toppings, sauces, and non-traditional pairings to individual pieces. This approach distinguished the counter well before New York's current wave of premium omakase rooms made such creativity mainstream. The restaurant's consistent placement in Opinionated About Dining's North America Top 400 across 2024 and 2025 reflects that the format still draws serious sushi diners to its Hell's Kitchen location at 347 West 46th Street.
Hours at Sushi of Gari: Hours: Monday Closed Tuesday 5–9:45 pm Wednesday 5–9:45 pm Thursday 5–9:45 pm Friday 5–9:45 pm Saturday 5–9:45 pm Sunday Closed.
Sushi of Gari is located at 347 W 46th St, New York, NY 10036, New York City.
347 W 46th St, New York, NY 10036
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