Henri Bour, winemaker at Domaine de Grangeneuve in Roussas, works Syrah and Viognier from a family estate begun in 1964.
The vineyard work begins with a reading of ground rather than a cellar decision. Henri Bour, winemaker at Domaine de Grangeneuve in Roussas, has held that line since 1998, working the family estate in Drôme Provençale with the patience of a vigneron who has not moved address to change register. The Bour family arrived here in 1964, when Odette and Henri Bour bought a property of oak woods, cereals, and raw land. Vines came slowly, in a place that would later be read through Grignan-les-Adhémar AOC. That origin still matters at the bench-side of the work: this is not a cellar built around reinvention, but one formed by continuity, mixed farming, and the habit of letting the site set the terms. Bour’s role is both maker and steward. His own phrase, “It is the terroir that signs the wine,” sits close to the method. The house is known for aromatic precision and a Syrah register marked by clarity, but the claim rests on tenure more than language. Same address. Same family holding. Same attention to what the limestone, terraces, sun, and northern coolness will allow.
The domaine works 85 hectares of vineyard, with over 30% planted to Viognier and Syrah for the specifications of Grignan-les-Adhémar AOC. The wider planting stays within the Rhône family: Syrah, Grenache Noir, Cinsault, and Marselan for reds; Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, and Grenache Blanc for whites. The discipline is sustainable rather than cosmetic. The land has carried High Environmental Value certification since 2020, and the vineyard work includes regular ploughing and the least aggressive treatments possible. Around the rows, the local polyculture is part of the condition of the place, with lavender, apricot, oak, almond, and olive trees shaping the estate’s agricultural frame. In the cellar, the method follows the wine rather than a single recipe. Some cuvées age in stainless steel to hold freshness and aromatic lift; others move through oak barrels, with new and used wood in the program. La Truffière gives the style in direct terms, a cuvée from the estate made for natural ease rather than weight, practical beside summer grilling and still tied to the same ground.
The room has the quiet of an 18th-century Provençal bastide, not the hush of performance. Stone, cellar air, and the slower cadence of a family winery set the pace before the glass reaches the counter. The tasting cellar sits within the estate rather than apart from it, with vineyards close enough to keep the conversation anchored in rows, weather, and harvest decisions. Grangeneuve has spent 60 years receiving individuals, groups, and seminar guests, but the strongest texture is still guided discovery: grape variety, terroir, nose, palate, then the return to the land outside. The place reads as rustic because it has not had to pretend otherwise. Its comfort comes from use. In the glass, that means the aromatic line of Viognier, the clean Syrah register, and the steadiness of a cellar whose hospitality remains attached to the work.
Continuity is the condition to follow here, not a change of scene. Bour remains vigneron and winemaker at the same family address, carrying forward an estate begun in 1964 and still shaped by the first conversion from oak woodland into vineyard. If the future has a concrete form at Grangeneuve, it is the next reading of Syrah from Roussas, or the next pour of La Truffière in the bastide cellar.
Roussas, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, Frankreich
Drôme Provençale