Francesco Versio, winemaker at Figli Luigi Oddero in La Morra, tends classical Nebbiolo on organic Langhe vineyards there.
Long maceration asks for patience before anything else. At Figli Luigi Oddero in La Morra, winemaker Francesco Versio keeps that discipline on Nebbiolo, working inside a Barolo estate whose cellar favors native fermentations, concrete, long extraction, and large botti over polish. He came through Alba's Umberto 1 wine school, where cellar order and the expectations of Piemonte sit close to the lesson, then carried that formation into wines built around clarity, balance, and a lower register of force. Here, his role is not to push the estate into a new accent. It is to continue a classical one. The property farms across 32 hectares in Barolo and Barbaresco, with holdings that move from La Morra to Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d'Alba, and Treiso. The family story remains present in the estate's current shape, with the house described after Luigi's death as managed by his wife Lena and their children Maria and Giovanni. Versio works within that continuity, where the vineyard name carries weight and the cellar's best gesture is often restraint.
The method changes with the wine, but the line stays legible. The estate has been certified organic since 2014 for its core red vineyards, and the cellar follows spontaneous fermentations, long macerations, and aging without new oak. Barolo Vignarionda is 100% Nebbiolo from a single holding in Serralunga d'Alba, with grapes harvested by hand and sorted before fermentation and maceration. Malolactic fermentation follows between the next fall and spring, then the wine spends 36 months in medium-size French oak barrels and 24 months in bottle before release. Barolo Rocche Rivera takes 15 to 20 days of maceration with indigenous yeasts, then moves through stainless steel and medium or large oak barrels for 36 months before another 24 months in bottle. Barolo Convento is given a 25-day maceration and two years in large oak botti. Even Vino Rosso Convento keeps its own cellar logic: Dolcetto, some Barbera, and a touch of Nebbiolo from vineyards around Santa Maria, fermented in stainless steel, matured for about six months in cement, with the Nebbiolo component in cask.
The room here is not built around spectacle. The estate sits at Santa Maria, in the hills around La Morra, surrounded by Barolo vineyards and arranged around the cellar rather than a large visitor theatre. The atmosphere belongs to a traditional Piedmont cantina: quiet, low-key, and oriented toward the work of vessel, vintage, and site. In that setting, the distinctions among Barolo Specola, Rocche Rivera, Convento, and Vignarionda do not need theatrical explanation. They arrive through village, exposure, soil, and time. Vignarionda gives the sharpest example, a south-facing Serralunga parcel planted at 350 meters on Helvetian soils of marine Miocene origin. The estate's task is to keep that identity intact long enough for the bottle to carry it.
The portfolio matters because it treats the Langhe as a set of separate arguments, not as a single house blend. Barolo Tradizionale draws on the breadth of the villages, while the cru wines narrow the frame. The rarest point is Vignarionda, held here as a single hectare in Serralunga d'Alba and handled with the longest patience in the cellar. If the next vintage changes the register, the test remains the same: whether Nebbiolo from Vignarionda can keep its structure, scent, and length after 36 months in barrel and 24 months in bottle.
La Morra, Piedmont, Italien
Frazione Santa Maria (La Morra)