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    Saison’s live-fire dining room in San Francisco, with a long wooden table, open kitchen, copper pots, and illuminated S marquee.

    Inside Saison’s Live-Fire System: The 54 Producers Behind the Kitchen

    Saison’s live-fire kitchen depends on almond wood, custom-grown caviar, exclusive crop plans, ceramics, glassware, and a 54-member producer network.

    Director of Editorial Standards

    Hugo Marchetti

    Filed August 27, 2026

    11 min read

    Saison is often described through its hearth, but fire alone does not explain the restaurant. The more revealing subject is the production system around it: almond wood cut to a working specification, crops planned for a single kitchen, seafood supplied through traceable relationships, caviar grown for a particular preparation, and vessels commissioned for the food they will carry. Saison’s June 2026 Guest Literature Book names 54 farms, ranches, fisheries, pantry specialists, beverage partners, artists, and makers. Read together, those names form an operating diagram for a two-Michelin-star kitchen.

    Richard Lee, Saison’s co-owner and executive chef, leads the current kitchen. Lee joined Saison in 2019 after working at One Market, Gilt, and Eleven Madison Park, then moved from executive sous chef to chef de cuisine and executive chef. His work retains the restaurant’s open-hearth grammar while directing it toward the culinary diversity of Northern California: the fire is a method of concentration, not a flavor applied indiscriminately.

    The hearth is a supply-chain tool

    Saison calls itself an open wood-fire restaurant, but the useful distinction is the fuel. Lazzari Fuel Company, a San Francisco family business dating to 1908, exclusively supplies the restaurant’s almond wood. Almond wood burns differently from oak or fruit wood; its heat curve, ember bed, and aromatic contribution become variables the kitchen can learn and repeat. Once a restaurant commits its menu to live fire, fuel procurement belongs beside fish quality and harvest timing as a technical input.

    The hearth also changes how a brigade reads ingredients. Radiant heat, direct flame, smoke, and the resting temperature around the fire create several cooking zones without the uniformity of a conventional range. The cook must account for water content, fat, surface area, distance from the coals, and the rate at which the fire is being fed. Saison’s restraint on the plate begins with that control. The aim is not to make every course taste smoky; it is to use fire to expose sweetness, minerality, bitterness, or texture that the ingredient already contains.

    Three plated Saison courses on white dishes, including a venison course, photographed from above on a wooden table.
    Three Saison courses show how the kitchen pairs elemental cooking with controlled, spare plating. Photo source: Eater SF.

    A produce program built on crop planning

    The strongest farm relationships do more than deliver good produce. They change what can be planted. Kibo Farm, a four-acre organic family farm on Sonoma Mountain, follows an exclusive crop plan for Saison covering more than 50 varieties of fruit and vegetables. That arrangement moves menu development upstream: the kitchen and farm can discuss cultivar, sowing schedule, maturity, size, and intended use before a seed goes into the ground.

    K&J Orchards is a cornerstone of the fruit program, growing stone fruit, nuts, and citrus in Winters and Yuba City. Brokaw Ranch Company supplies avocados and subtropical fruit from Ventura County. Lonely Mountain Farm interplants flowers, fruit trees, and row vegetables, using biological diversity as part of pest management. These are different agricultural models, but each gives the kitchen something more precise than a generic category such as “local produce.”

    Scale becomes especially important at the pass. Tucker Taylor Culinary Gardens grows herbs and petite vegetables at plating scale, where leaf size, stem tenderness, and harvest timing affect whether an ingredient can be used whole. Pacific Wildcraft harvests sea plants along the Mendocino coast, bringing salinity and texture from the Pacific into the same sourcing conversation as the cultivated garden.

    The broader produce bench includes Brooks & Daughters, Dirty Girl Produce, Fifth Crow Farm, Four Sisters Farm, Front Porch Farm, Kashiwase Farms, Marin Roots Farm, Star Route Farms, and Tierra Vegetables. The significance of the list is not its length but its redundancy of expertise: orchards, row crops, flowers, herbs, coastal plants, and specialty varieties are handled by operations built around different soils and harvest rhythms.

    Animal, seafood, and pantry sources define the usable palette

    Saison’s animal program is similarly specific. Silver Sky Ranch is the restaurant’s sole egg source. Corvus supplies all of its rabbit, with weekly hand deliveries from Pescadero. Liberty Ducks supports whole-animal preparations, while Broken Arrow Ranch supplies field-harvested wild venison. A kitchen cooking over fire needs this continuity: fat composition, age, musculature, and handling determine how an ingredient reacts to direct heat.

    Some relationships approach custom manufacturing. California Caviar Company grows caviar specifically for Saison, after which the kitchen smokes it for the restaurant’s signature preparation. Monterey Abalone Company hand-raises abalone in Monterey Bay. Water2Table Fish Company, founded by Andi and Joe Conte, connects the kitchen with local small-boat, hook-and-line fishers. The usable output is not merely “seafood.” It is product whose origin, harvest method, and handling can be discussed with the person who supplied it.

    Additional animal and seafood partners named by Saison are Anderson Ranches, Meadowood Farm, Wolfe Ranch Quail, Hog Island Oyster Co., Taylor Shellfish Farms, and Mt. Lassen Trout.

    The pantry follows the same logic. Marshall’s Farm preserves the differences between Bay Area microclimates by keeping its honeys unblended. Straus Family Creamery supplies organic, pasture-based dairy. Luna Koshihikari Rice grows single-origin organic Koshihikari in the Sacramento Valley. Le Sanctuaire supplies five-spice, harissa, and its proprietary Swarnadwipa spice blend. Kettl provides the Japanese buckwheat tea served as the meal’s final course since Saison’s inception.

    That pantry network also includes Capay Mills, Diaspora Co., Spotlight Oil, Sightglass Coffee, Sake Tengoku, Wine Forest, Gallia Imports, Lyra, and Misubi. Each expands the kitchen’s vocabulary without requiring Saison to collapse the source into an anonymous commodity.

    The plate and glass are part of the recipe

    A tasting menu is read through vessels as well as ingredients. Saison works with porcelain and ceramic pieces from Hering Berlin, Lilith Rockett, Mitch Iburg, Lynn Mahon Ceramics, and Christina Liu Ceramics. Japanese ceramicist Jin Yamanaka of Studio KO makes pieces exclusively for the restaurant.

    Those commissions matter because a plate regulates contrast, negative space, sauce movement, heat retention, and the angle from which a guest encounters a course. A shallow porcelain form can make a broth behave differently from a deep stoneware bowl; a dark, irregular surface changes how char and glaze register under dining-room light. The maker’s decisions continue working after the cook’s hands leave the plate.

    The wider table setting includes Ginori 1735, Kimura Glass, J. & L. Lobmeyr, and Zalto Glas. Floral and plant work comes from Bound By The Ground, the studio of former Saison captain Brent McDowell. These contributors are not décor appended to the food. They establish the physical conditions in which the food and wine are perceived.

    The beverage bench: Mark Bright and Molly Greene

    Saison’s wine program was established by Mark Bright, co-founder and beverage director of Saison Hospitality and winemaker at Saison Winery. It is curated by Molly Greene, the restaurant’s beverage and service director. The list places particular emphasis on Burgundy while maintaining depth across Old and New World regions, mature vintages, and large formats. Wine Spectator has awarded it the Grand Award every year since 2014.

    Greene’s stated interest in under-the-radar and newly discovered producers gives the program a working tension: canonical bottles provide historical reference, while less familiar growers keep the cellar from becoming a museum. Pairing in a live-fire restaurant requires more than matching weight. Smoke, char, rendered fat, bitter edges, salinity, and sweet Maillard notes can all change how acidity, tannin, reduction, and élevage are perceived.

    The Saison wine bar interior with round wooden tables, leather banquettes, wine glasses, flowers, and contemporary art.
    The Saison wine-bar room gives the beverage program its own material vocabulary. Photo by Adahlia Cole and Colin Peck, via Eater SF.

    The service structure is part of that translation. Darlyn Celis, general manager, works alongside Greene and the dining-room team, while Lee’s kitchen includes chef de cuisine Dan Sita, executive sous chef Tanya Jimenez, and pastry chef Michelle Fried. The current roster makes authorship legible: the restaurant can name who is responsible for the hearth, the cellar, the dining room, and dessert rather than presenting “Saison” as a single anonymous hand.

    Why a 54-member producer list matters

    Restaurants often use the language of seasonality and local sourcing without exposing the mechanisms behind it. Saison’s literature does the more useful thing: it names the network. That creates a record of who grows the fruit, harvests the seaweed, raises the rabbit, mills the grain, shapes the porcelain, blows the glass, supplies the wood, and curates the cellar.

    The result is not a claim that every relationship carries equal weight in every menu. A seasonal restaurant will draw on the network unevenly. What the list demonstrates is capacity. When the kitchen needs a particular cultivar, a smaller herb, a different marine texture, a specific vessel, or fuel with a known burn, it has a specialist relationship to call upon.

    That is the Made By reading of Saison: not simply a restaurant “inspired by California terroir,” but a workshop whose output depends on dozens of other workshops. The coherence of the meal comes from making those dependencies intentional. Ingredient, flame, plate, glass, wine, and room are separate crafts; Saison’s work is to edit them into one service.

    Source note: producer relationships in this article are drawn from Saison’s 41-page Guest Literature Book dated June 8, 2026, supplied by Beverage & Service Director Molly Greene, and cross-checked against Saison’s current team, about, and wine-program pages.

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